我女兒的作品（中文翻譯Google Translate + 潤色）
Yu Bo’s Family Kitchen: Inside One of China’s Greatest Restaurants
I walked down Kuanzhai Lane in Chengdu, looking for number 43. The area is highly stylized, as China’s “heritage sites” tend to be, but somehow devoid of any trace of soul. Wading one’s way through German breweries, Starbucks, and new age tea houses, its hard not to get distracted by the gimmicks along the way, or the attractive hostesses at their doorways.
我走在成都的寬窄巷子裏, 在這高度風格化的巷子裏您能觸摸到曆史在這裏留下的痕跡，也能體味到成都最原汁原味的休閑生活方式，在這裏你能夠感受到最不一樣的文化元素, 最時尚和最古老在這裏完美並存著, 德國的啤酒, 美國的星巴客, 蓋碗茶，還有笑靨如花的芙蓉女子…….
But I was on a quest. The most holiest of culinary grails awaited me, and it had been a long journey. I approached two large wooden doors, calligraphy flanking each side, informing visitors they have arrived at Yu’s Family Kitchen. Understated and humble from the facade, it was a good indication of what was inside. Only six tables are available for just one seating per night, and despite tremendous success over the years, the restaurant has never expanded.
但我今天到訪的目的是來采訪我心目中最好的烹飪大師和品嚐他親手烹製的美食, 這是我期盼已久的旅行. 當我來到窄巷子43號,兩扇刻著書法的木們躍入眼前,告知客人你已經來到了喻家小廚,從門麵來看,它非常低調而謙遜, 廳內隻有6張桌子, 此餐廳最大特色之一是
每晚隻提供6張桌子的客人用餐, 盡管多年來取得了巨大成功，但餐廳從來沒有擴大。
I was met by Chef Yu Bo and his wife. The duo have operated Yu’s Family Kitchen since 2006, back when they were the first restaurant on the Kuanzhai block. Its a labour of love, from the plants in the courtyard to the plates on the table, everything is hand picked and designed. The pride and integrity they take in their creation is undeniable. Yu Bo is quiet and introspective, but get him on the topic of food, and the passion rolls off his tongue in almost lyrical Sichuan dialect. It was especially endearing to me, to hear this exaltation of Sichuan cuisine in my own mother tongue. The moment I introduced myself in their language, it was as if we already shared an understanding.
我會見了喻師傅和他的妻子, 回憶他們從2006年開始在寬窄巷子經營起這家餐廳至今已經5年了, 從庭院裏的植物，到桌子上的盤子一切都是手工采摘和設計, 他們的構思和創造力是值得驕傲和不可否認的, 喻師傅很內向且不善言談, 但當我們將話題轉到食物時, 喻師傅
立即侃侃而來, 話語裏透出對自己的事業的熱愛, 尤其是用四川方言道來,讓我倍感親切, 隨即我也開始用四川話跟他們交談,這更加深了我們之間的理解和交流.
Despite the fame Yu Bo has achieved internationally through the patronage of food writer Fuchsia Dunlop, he tells me that they do not receive PR coverage within China. Those publications tend to prefer overhyped glitzy establishments with a knack for scale. Yu however, focuses on detail and does it exceptionally well. Few can fathom the lengths he goes to source the perfect and rare ingredient essential to a dish, or the cost of these at the expense of profitability. Why does he do it? Out of doing what he feels is the right thing, and the joy of serving a great dish to someone who might appreciate the integrity behind it.
著名的美食作家Fuchsia Dunlop 早在幾年前就在國際上發表了有關喻師傅技藝和傳記的專著,但喻師傅告訴我,他們很遺憾至今沒有看到中文媒體的報道.如果你了解國內媒體注重華而不實之外表包裝的現狀,也就不難理解這點.但是,於師傅更注重細節,這也是他的拿手之處.很少有人象他那樣,為了一份菜肴的特色配料而親自跋涉長途去采摘選購,甚至不惜工本. 他為什麽要這樣做？除了做他認為是正確的，為懂得欣賞這份菜的人效力而帶來的喜悅是另一重要原因.
Yu Bo is classically trained in Sichuan cooking, and has travelled the world picking up influences from Catalonia and the Culinary Institute of America to name a few. He celebrates the foundations of Sichuan cuisine in his cooking, depth and balance of flavour, colour, but what makes him truly unique is the ingredients he sources. Once a month he and his wife will personally drive miles out of Chengdu to hand pick huajiao- Sichuan peppercorn, mushrooms, organic pork, bamboo, and artisanal condiments like soy sauce and vinegar. Because he buys in small batches, prices are astronomically high, and suppliers shake their heads in di*****elief when he tells them he serves it at a restaurant.
喻師傅畢業於傳統的川菜烹飪學校，多年來他利用假日周遊世界各地並從中汲取養分, 其中受加泰羅尼亞和美國烹飪學院的影響最深。喻師傅憑著對烹飪技術孜孜不倦的執著、唯美追求, 把琳琅滿目、品種多樣的食物原料、調料完美地融合,尤其是對食物原材料的選購付出了大量的精力和財力. 每月一次，他和他的妻子將親自到成都郊外去親手挑選花椒，蘑菇，有機豬肉，竹筍，以及醬油，醋等手工做成的調味品. 因為他不是批發, 所以價格昂貴,當經銷商得知他是為一家餐館來選購,都詫異的搖頭,難以置信.
Yu Bo keeps his perspective fresh by frequently gathering inspiration from abroad. He is well-versed in the topic of molecular cuisine, and has dined at El Bulli with his wife. He says of Ferran Adria’s 40+ course feast, “The flavours were a bit singular. In Spain, everything is just salty, or just sweet. There is no balance, no complexity. That is where Sichuan cooking shines.” But he keeps an eye on the trends and techniques of modernist cooking, experimenting sometimes in his own kitchen. One of our 30 courses that night included a deceptive white gelee made solely of tomato juice. In his view, the humble Chinese tofu is just as much a feat of molecular gastronomy as anything in El Bulli’s kitchen. With all the versatility of tofu’s form, I tend to agree.
喻師傅通過經常不斷的收集來自國外同行們的靈感來保持他的新鮮視角。他對分子美食主題非常熟悉，並曾在埃爾布利餐館與他的妻子共進晚餐。他對大廚費蘭亞德裏亞的40 多道菜的盛宴的評價如下：“味道是有點奇異。在西班牙，一切都隻是鹹，或隻是甜。沒有平衡，沒有複雜性。而這正是四川烹飪的一大亮點。”但這並不妨礙他對現代烹飪技術發展趨勢的關注，在他自己的廚房實驗新的菜式。我們那天晚上用餐的30道菜包括一碟全部用番茄汁製成的具有欺騙性的白色gelee甜品。在他看來，簡單的中國豆腐同樣可以是多樣性的，與埃爾布利餐館的分子美食不相上下。這一點對鍾愛豆腐的我深有同感。
Sichuan’s rich culinary traditions may be alive and well in Yu’s Family Kitchen, but not all is rosy and bright. Yu Bo laments that food culture is on a rapid decline in China. See my thoughts on this topic here. Chefs don’t have the status they used to hold in China, when recipes and techniques were passed down carefully from generation to generation. Culinary artistry died alongside the cultural revolution, and the only remnants of it today is a system of vocational schools that churn out graduates to large hotel and restaurant chains across the nation. Even his own cooks, Yu Bo has trouble motivating. Questions like “But are you PASSIONATE about cooking Sichuan food?” are met with blank stares.
在喻師傅的家庭式廚房裏, 四川豐富的烹飪傳統顯得頗具生命力，但並不是一切都是美好和光明的。喻師傅感歎，飲食文化在當代中國正迅速下降。有關這個話題我在這個鏈接裏有專門介紹。廚師的地位，遠不及古代中國，食譜和廚藝被一代又一代精心的傳乘了下來。烹飪作為一種技藝在文化大革命中被扼殺，而今天遺留下來的部分則衍生出了遍布全國的職業學校,其畢業生大多供職於大型酒店及餐飲連鎖店。在他自己雇用的廚師身上，喻師傅都很難看到對烹飪事業的激情。他們無法理解譬如像“你是否摯愛烹飪川菜？”之類的問題。
It may just be that appreciation for Sichuan cuisine will be carried forward by exposure outside of China. Already, the media attention Yu Bo has garnered has attracted many international Michelin starred chefs and culinary cultural exchanges happen frequently in his kitchen and abroad. Fuchsia Dunlop and more and more Chinese food writers are shining a light on the virtues of this glorious cuisine, dispelling the misunderstanding that Sichuan food is only spicy, oily, and rich. Showing that like music, Sichuan cuisine is harmonious, never flat, with lots of notes. It is complex, sweet, spicy, sour, savoury, pungent, and when compounded, the same ingredients can create infinite other flavour profiles.
值得欣慰的是川菜已被更多的外國人關注和喜愛, 國外媒體對喻師傅的技藝和傳記報道吸引了許多國際米其林星級廚師和烹飪專家來川相互學習交流. 越來越多的極具權威和文化內涵的美食作家如Fuchsia Dunlop的專著, 讓更多的人扭轉了對川菜的誤解,認為川菜隻是辛辣，油膩. 川菜的魅力就象音樂, 它是和諧, 並非平板的, 他是琳琅滿目、品種多樣的食物原料、調料通過不同的刀工、火候、技法相互結合、滲透，巧妙地利用而練就的烹飪技藝.
Yu Bo wants to take this concept further, and set up culinary exchange center in a house he has bought on the outskirts of Chengdu. He visualizes a world-class kitchen, a center of education and a dining room serving only local, organic vegetarian fare. Chefs from around the world will be invited to come and exchange ideas and techniques. This would be a first step on the long road to elevating Sichuan’s culinary heritage, and hopefully more and more home grown chef talent will come along for the ride.
喻師傅希望把他這一理念繼續堅持並推廣下去，他已買了在成都郊區的別墅作為基地, 成立了烹飪交流中心, 旨在建立一間世界水平的集餐飲與教育一體的, 供應本地出產的有機蔬菜的特色餐廳. 屆時將邀請世界各地的廚師來共同切磋廚藝, 這將大大提升發揚和傳承四川烹飪技藝, 喚起更多人對烹飪事業的熱愛.
Yu Bo tells me that his young daughter recently said she wants to learn how to cook. Beaming, he said “I couldn’t be happier.”
最後喻師傅告訴我，他的小女兒最近對他說，她想學習如何烹飪, 他抑製不住內心的激動：“沒有比聽到這話更讓我高興的了。”
a single, roasted head of garlic
16 cold appetizers
spicy “dry” chicken
five spice shredded mushroom
Yu Bo’s signature invention, 毛筆 calligraphy brushes with edible tips made of a fine, flaky pastry to dip into an ink of tomato based chili sauce
ps. South Beauty allegedly stole this dish and passed it off as their own. I now refuse to enter that restaurant.
black truffle on egg
an interpretation of traditional sweet and sour fish
double boiled fish soup, incredibly rich broth
abalone served on a bed of 涼粉 mung bean jelly bathed in chilli sauce, a celebration of textures
light and fragrant broad beans with goji
sea cucumber with pickles and fried rice
light egg custard with chicken
finely sheared porcupine bun filled with red bean. omg!
delicate skate with chilis on fine vermicelli
rare fungi from Yunan, hand picked and laboriously washed and dried, intensely smoky aroma and rich flavour
incredibly rich chicken soup, with spring pea shoots and soy beans
flaky pastry reminiscent of dragon’s beard candy, a popular Sichuan sweet
Yu Bo’s spin on modernist cuisine- a gelee based completely on the juice of tomatos, deceptive, light, refreshing
a staple bowl of dan dan mian to end the meal
