西班牙葡萄牙紀遊(2016年2月15日-23日) 一 渡海登山 我在摩洛哥的得土安出境處迅速辦完出境手續,快步走向西班牙入境處。入口坐著一位邊警,對我出示的美國護照懶得接過手檢查,僅斜視了一眼,就擺手放我入境。我快步走出幾節車廂連接的通道,踏上休達(Ceuta)的街道。我把預定的旅館地址寫在一張便利貼上,粘在手心,以便問路。這是我旅途中獨自步入一陌生地方慣用的問路方式。行步間正好過來一當地人,他看了那旅館地址,告訴我需乘車前往,讓我跟他一起搭乘前麵的公車。我手中尚無歐元,順便拿出20美元,從路邊外匯兌換販子手中換了14歐元,以備上車買票。那位熱心人帶我上車,到站時跟我一起下車,一直陪我走到旅館門口。 休達是土得安延伸到海灣一塊18.5平方公裏的港口,自古以來,為兵家必爭之地。兩千年內,穆斯林、基督徒以及柏柏爾人,此來彼去,輪番占據。1415年,葡萄牙國王若望一世及其三子率艦隊攻占了摩爾人控製的休達。葡萄牙從此占據此軍事要地,固守地中海通往大西洋的航道,保護他們的船隻與貿易免受海盜騷擾。1668年,西班牙人又從葡萄牙人手中奪得這塊寶地,占領至今。
進入休達,眼前的街景、建築、行人以及整個的氛圍立即出現對比分明的變化,突顯出發達國家與發展中國家的差別。我從裏斯本飛回紐約的機票早已預訂,這一路的行程安排比較緊湊。次日一早,我就打點行李,摸索加詢問,步行到港口登船處。渡船內寬敞舒適,乘客極少,眼看著對岸的直布羅陀巨岩越來越近,休達和摩洛哥已隱沒於身後的茫茫煙波。![](data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAGoAAACICAYAAAAPrX4eAAAgAElEQVR4Xpy9CZykd1Xvfaq7unrf92V69i3bZCdAWBLCKosCivq6sHhFvVxXXkV93T4qvF7QexV9EVEU0Su8CIhsCYFgEkISSCbbJLPvMz3TPb1vVdXVVXW/v/N/nqrq7ppJvB2amanlWf5n+53fOef/JF76/nuKtu6nmKhZ/5IlEonSa8Vi+Erla6V/FxMWvb3h/crvJKxgNRyzYHVWV1i12kTOVhJ1HLTWdKZCocBxitXPseHqLnMt6z63/nqrHGbDfb2Q+/b7in4vd8z49fC5sJaldeTvNYmyGMJ9x+/rL3yjUlCli6qp3XC++KDVBFS6CD+6ThAupPIm47+XXtOF8VtbrLGaQt6KNUVbRUg1/Fs3ovO9UEHFn3u+RX0+QcXvc+bS/ddUUdpqwkgUC0EAFQpd9XMlMZXf5W51x2uEF94tSIS+nomX/fq9/ok1gqiVoMoWtOH96GIqvxMLpiQQP3X5hvX6moX0eypaW1LWU2OLeZ2SC+baYkH53/wyytdSbR1KguKm1l93dcUKSrL+p6ogUZz4p6ZGixYUqFI59W8/c3SP5ff1ufXeh3uq+H41YQYtD4IqFvQXlPcVH/gWxw0upnSCKhZVTVsve6PSgJpgXeU7ikw+WnPpX7Jm1QZSq7aYq7XZQj2Xs4JF1boGFdFQ/Uij/VhX+onOE65x42dLlrLGlXLPVa5xw2ki73C500t4/iNhbdCitQKN179YWO/S+TffL6xz9VLkoBiswSt/874rCqryJq+8WrGri3zqZVxAfLwCAqhPZG1Tw4rNZJI2XWyyZDHDRSXdEYSfYFHP57Li63ohn1vvjl+IS7/SfcfHq43uV7F1o2WV78Hd4zqLcpuJhFI+lwSU51isB1blgtpwIRUWdUVB6ZvRBQb/LM2K9ab6ApcEZbXWmMjYzZnTdrKhy86vDluydlEQw4OnH6XC7b0QIVTeR3UrisT/fHHked6vdh7Z1RoHIje4bmFdgPrcBouKBSUAFauojhfHKNZCgtoYPzaivqpaJRcXBdsXupCxe9IZ6orL9oNj37Zn99xkT8wOW6ouTYyq91tejyxf6PEvZ11rXLsrwUbAUw2UvBAvsj5Wx9+Rla1XGD+rK6LuMVyH3Hzs5tbGwXIISNzxW99+QYKqHqOCoMKJKvUnWoQqdxkLqghq6Jm+aD+59Kg9ePPL7TsXmq1FGCbfZAUhCi1mbFZVYHpZ76ov5XoXd7kFX3vdUexYcy8bHU7Z4q8cO9dGzHJcinFMWRnLYK4WICf3Gf+UPvOq3/4PB+2VVqVAv/6nmqAutxiXy7NKx5QWNdXbjfd/3d5Qf9b+/Q0/bE+erLf6ZD1rEHxzkFEl2ltrAZ4CVFnDahZVzXqqWh4KcjnLW7MeFUiwmgKUzue5ynqlkzGtRYKV51zvOUppyl2/80Dpdktm+jwJb1ncZZ15PkFW3lCxJmkNdav2hs9+yK6+qsm+8OpftmePkU/VK4cigDrSqUxJyooUy+6FINz1wqjmPp/PpT7f+5cTlLvR2CtUKp0j9rKgIifortDTknUpTUlQr/7dB59XUJe9WPe1G339lbRM7xVq66xv+pS9+RsfsGt+7E77i6Z32Im5JqutRUiFuqo5Y2zxz2utVU5+pcX+zwjvPyu06slCtRSunG9VXn5lvErc9XsPRTHKnc0Gl6MXqjEE4dPlBLNa8huftCCnTM6SFPTGvdTCRPQf+Lq9r++fLD/4dvur/CtswvqgkVYtR16SEByt4vbWu8P1MgnZ/eX94ZXjlvQ5gKhKABCfo1JBlDoVcGmV61I9hpevsOwOlfCuDy2ypuDu1/xUuNjEa/7gYRfUlRahuibp4GUGIw6AMaRec+E1inr85uusWMu38qvWeeF79ivXfMWOHxqxzw/9nE0WGiyZWOQyoJFgKuKfytj5fyqosswrY144Q4xag4AjQUV5xpoEtCKpFmy+ciyL6KCKVY/XwwmyDYLS+sQKVlY0MTbhIvnf6/7w0ZKgKhdno3g3vrJGgNHxYx+75j2sSGlsEUGt1hKL0J6GYp3tnf2W9c6fte/u+RlbXMpaivwCksIBRfwTm3+1a1uvQFVYoSsqoN4sMQsutNJZovRgIymsTxS4zsrv/WfWyt1hlQBbFlT5aIUKgSbe8Mff91WJzVgXULaOcOXrXV85XpRhZSWVIk0M2hrdudydKBbooRUEJRxUl2iyriP32bb8cTtywzttOjPLF+osuZpaI6j1i1DN+itR1sY0c6MrqxT+WmFHCK0i/6m+FmtJ69i6dLsSYqwAVeOfLCf6TOW9xYKq/I4n/1IMpT8/8MHH1oCJ9SZdTZPLghOLED5R1UdH7xW4L/FgyXzBViBhgQzWxBdbLjxjo015O913m01lZy1f02j1eZxDKRFcS4BWnqdSIGXhVY9R62NTpbDXUkjl/KXMGa6PeVK+Kq5ZSFxKTfyVoiofupyggkVVHreaerFOEfr29X7jhx6/oqAuh3SCQH3pLmv58SLgW92vJNGMvFybrAvppfhvqD2LkMzSSwTTRCsxLLsGorpFr4OskWqUzlspqGouZL0VxnRXgMYVXiH2nWtuqfIf+rSAzjqLUgT2pL+8FOvXrUwNhZLG2lVT3ArfrRSf+FB/TYJ60/+7fx08l1++MoVUQkWXFVH5jcvCaQFBalCDrTlbzKZsJk0Uq8mHWLYOfVWepqqWlsDQ+gXYaO1lD7HOPVec5HLKWf7uxnqd/MQLQpyuGQHVltbGbXSt6PQxhxgRK5N4y38vC6raul9pYdamdBu/HV9MVXjPldTWFmwIQc1nGmw2DXVCHgUuLAkqaGHQ4vIixQh1o/ZGEXXDhVSPa+tdWnVruNL9rz1RpdvcqCAlF4uQQjlknU1VARgFfS6O9z/44Sc2oL61F7B2ofRe2aLWnvBymng50rImkUdQqzafrbe5NGX4ZB7QQbW3IgasX/UrWlTFtV3ZCuU1Yje20XVfyd1fzomE44WfKyblir/rDhJWMV7ncByvyblni1iaH/rI/hIpW21B15hoyQnHaE4HqvCj68sDG2VcvkQHDBKULApBUZOyJDhHvRIVrm89uLmihkdxYv1nNn4nBPPLfe75Xd9Ga3y+71Te+Po4GiB7jLDjHE1XyNrGS/22P3vyioKqpplljcFXR4H1cuzFGsn4P8r6JIsabEFQblFBUILxlRZ1ORRa7bpiZuL/VFCxt1iPEtdbSlzUvZx1VXu9fMxyf0T8uYAjASQRax4DNQdhcZz64T9/MjLGsoaFOn34Kbm5Kn41fGJjUH5BhKliFAoz0JyxhRVZFCV4wEXSncDaYB2XPSoXILTArPsJqrnmRX9pnaWXXc3ae9zw3Yp8SrfpDiIA2A0/AdlGKxItALezZg3DevIbtRaU41b0VT9HIGedoqqg9BLv+OhTFSE7PtNG1BdLd43w/NJjGr/y6qvcSXRrJSHy1SR0Un9TGkGlgqBqEZR88wZBbXQ1zjKuezlwitHixDfJP9f3MpTgsVtv9L6nhPHKBv2rYUErlU4Cv2wcrujriI9TozRkvaK4lkThoiRu9Uz4ygaUp9OvqcHx2o/+5TOl2y1ZT8XVXQ44bNSp+JWNiKbqZyUoWVRLFtdXVxJUrceo9RZVXfBVLWqdhbtb2WACIUbpp4TA+GCpYBl93hmMiiJeQoRxNXO6zGLw7aAuEnCsqBWfXeNi1ynd2kSc7//YXx3gteD2qgkqPm61DKUy3yofuLqgNtygXB9qJEEtrjTYXJbbAq4n8mXUF38nplJ0LZWIqvJ6w/X7J9Ys2/qrCd9B59WaFt9z/JXYV0VHeCHo78ootHwt8ediawnyqwgxG53G2nv9vz72XElQ5Tvc+K3LCyqc7PkEtUHp3EsVbagtawsCE1m5PqG+Sngejl0pqNJxKm7S/Tr/Xu9QfDGi33hhPFDzn9zkhtgVC8qDUbSQ8VLE/153I7JI/3jFklUCh9LXYytddz3x4UrfrzjOGkbmJ/76YFlQcYK1xvlfJt4o8OGXy8sTzhBcbdBarytRg/LXQXjlH91cDWAibyOAiRkENb1Si4WpuqtPOQaCxA3qoQ7aCt0Mh1l3Wb44FRxapQbHt+NuLhKUOj0r4Yij4zg0c7JYD1wIwX9Vd3s6pC6mUlAV1xdfZqXwyuEsvOvKVKEQ8TqVaSfO8JN/c9gF5csTdYJWqkdV848+X1CwXbdiQRn16ioLrQtIrRVUtCKktsSorI02wvXlUjaO+2syupCcRJKgxAcGd7aiBpro6l9ojKjmVsqvKVcpM+UlBYqkU/ndQlR7qtCyDRRb7E4rFdF1IgIIsaCDVMrnjj9fKajKc8et4f61n/rbI1d0fVUXJtIi3ep64qQGQQDesKBVD84eC1Sp1K+u2L8QkF1dzYoNNxVsLldjkyC/lOXciuTqvNQoxVHSktcBI0OKVb3Coq7IBFRoa6VWVxfUunPwz9itVgpqY5kkeJDKVCW2cFmbQIi/F/nI9c07ayyq8kSVLP1P/92RktGW3X5FkIteLF9G+UhVu30jaxP9IWF4fOFwSS91UDLEA+ojKgU04Op6m82WV4ru+sRKeweUN9yv8m9+9QpMe6V26QqqNiFV8dKVML7k6tYElIqVWYfoHGxE8W+twpaJ60rhVxPUWksMHiJu1y6DmRier5GSK7Tfq0LAOz95eANyqKTx43t3gnDdT6jErv16Xu1eaJCKhDg3S9F125TMWWZ2zJaX0tbW1m6p+kb3C4WVZWttrLP86qqlqX9ka5usprbe8kDiFcr1MiQFjhhMBL3dcLmlGwoJyIbL3BDP/KgVClj6xhqAEj7jEFt/xmHBFy6UNEpxMOLk4uPECW3Qh4roGqPMda/pn9UHB8pxP/Huf4gtqky713hLcxTooosXWbFxDfQKvix6wy2bDqNkLW6smLW6lVlbmDppF488bpPPPmYTE5esp7vHenr6rL4hZW3tzdZQnwKSZ62xtcMaekatnu9aQ7vlmvotk+qzdE2TZUGCEl5wH6H/ohLPVYPs8aLpmsJ3+UapoX8tNC4tMAl45Y8ElYh6yQOYiN8tN5yWhLUO2vv5yioUzl86QHlt4wS3ssxRuh96TcIP5373PxwNy+zSjl9fZz2uPmHkZE2g5bVkUaAhbzliUGN9g7XmZy198ZgdeuYJO/rUo9bZXmc1+SXLzE1ZfiVv85OTllmYsfrGlPUObaLUUWPNCO3mm2+yWixteWnJGhobbfuuq2xuOWdLNFEstu6wXPuozdZ0eJdSS2HO56g0BBd+Ys2rVjYsL/3zAZHS+7G1cNhgUeEU1aZK1rivKHbHVi82p7ykQsDRsdag6gDHSoKKzuVKH33Z1/1d/3isZChx30Ol5bhWxLA2ElTQAhYF1KeyhI6YTFJJmj5t+7/8SZs586wtzc9bo6ymudGa25ptkn/3tPd4ven4kWcREDnU8Kj19/VxhoKll5ds08iQDQ90G97QNg8N2COPfNfOjV2w3s3bbMetr7XplqttrDBAfGpC04UQyxoncSg3qub5YlFVNqRcrlIQ6W/JXXpiELmwagXVkqAc6bqES5rhoUEvuZDVBhcI2aK6siqFuM7y3GikG3G813q/+9PHK8BEdJKKk8UXIu0IhGE4gL6UFMRFWNlEyjrqivbtv/5NO/Po12zrth3W09tnmWzWLpwfs47ubks2NNpKhvHPTMba2+gvX81aemHWtm7ZbMODCOXRR/zPO1/+YltanLGWxgY7eeqMnT1/3rbw+U1bd1rrjn12MNdjUx3XUGRsoT8wt/4Wy+ZT5W9VwmzFp+I8qbqofWUq1yV2Pp4UhVK6p2GRUgcTjP4ZXWXoBZH5rPVMfoSK065HsW4Y7/6nExsF5flR+AmCCglo7GKkmXniRkLWVJu0fLLJUplJu+fDP2tt2UvWu+1am19YogVs2RYWl6y/v8+aGuuxsmVrwMoaUjXW2dZI/LpkHe2ttmV01E4dP2FXXXOVbdm6yeZnp62/t9syubzNLtDrtzBn6cVF6+ztsmen6a+46oes0DxsNasrawT1PDNnzyPEIKjKBv1gXeV5p8oDrMnTXInDWlWGB7lKzT25gCTIKLzoOtd8X7IrHbyMiMqUqwT1L6c2CKr8QiQoLrd2TU9AOJh/TnO3dfWWmzpnz37+zyw7fsQWSXKbm5vd+s5jEdu2b8c1kiWlM+RKeevqYBggn+GYtdbX24Mc5vh3wdpaQX3Es5HBPqxyi03OLlhLRzcWWG8nz12w4a4+u5RrtdO9d9lCXRuNnMslQelaKm3hSi5wnXGssar1kCmOUXG00eKvj9VelggxYg0/J/bd4X0wLo9DwaKqCWodLtD9VJLjP/OZ0xsEVfL8keTd5cVm66grFiABnaBeh1tLZi7Zd/7+92z21NNQPg1YTBuwO2czWEff4DAXV28drS22mp6z5hQFQ6yjobEN60raiWNHmI2qs9aWFhvqrrPezjbbtm2bpXGVPf1DoMUZu++hx+ytb32DTRVS9v2a62zG+pmmzwTw7gsh/i5A+biAGPMZ1aZTSr0IFeujdVmbF7lnD7En/omRRYXH8bPHCxQOEiB9pEaxf3LCLXjKkheNHGdc0/ajro+07tXe+9mzV1a+4JwjZytyR3A8+OQcF9XY1GSWnbPvfv7jNrH/a9bZ3GBZLKqhhq7Y3Iol6kF9ZLuFlZwNbxqxfG7Z+jsarK+j3fOntsYELnESnq/OZuaXbM/uHaDHlA309VuB7HjHzu12EaT4zMGTdust11g61W7P5PbadM2g5RLLluYcRgdussifSqjhFpXWOOKKfKHXqSINDYxB0PD1P5VjnVXeDq4tWo6y3OIjaTuG8ptBUJWoD2WPJOcT9O7/gssLwirHrZIhVZQFEz/7uTMbY1TlVUbfCpO1gd5x1kELwYxTZvywPfLJD9nBB75i2zfvtc6hUVtGGI24ukXiSqqpkYsqWG6JvyO0TUN9dttN19rspYvW19lsTYzf1FnW2ptb7MSJMzYwsImkV2ejmzaVssGRQatrb7RLUxm7eucOe/TRx+zoxZTV9wHXUYDk5n22XNvL51dIr9O4TilTyoncrJogVbyrcCERNVBNDm5k6y2q8oPxe5WaXdkhHHBEEJxbQTRZ6P92AKHXY+8UFMa7TvS6n3ytS1RlrnSs936+LKhKVFPSmOgvAecTqRyK15KoJu38k/9hX/ubD9rS6QPWBN2zZcdea+0eQFCrtrKy4r+tra1YU4ZWZf7e0mhbNg1hSVliU6e98qUvAiRMErvmbGrsvOfOm0GMjc1NNkc+JWudAHDUwla0tw7awPCIfebzn7HZ6ax1A0KuvuM1ltt+hx2ebYYlzIEEc0DgpNWp2xZ6Kse/9VOjrk85lMiSgqGF1y5rORXQuLRYkRBCtTv8+OJrbaLPrwUZ/gk+gwUpXik2SXFKgpTb1rVGArwCLE383Bev7PriE4vtliU11SVtdfaCHXzkPjv29X+2pYvHrdjAQhVWrLenGYg9ijtKQgHlHBnWY1l1mrrLLth1V++2wb4eO3T0sL3kJS+2TYP91tbZyoXTBpzN2GbQX3tHk505d9YuXZoAITZyXKxxkRvKstBA9oeeewZGo9Ou3jRsV990mz120eyJ07jQ/m7LNzTRw66jaUHYDQZL9QXUuI+nFLFg5MDFH0YJ6DppBfQWU0WVQon+vn47BbceubM4kIcDOgXl/i7M6LocIjccbXtSco+lNKhC4JXuOfHz/y5BVfPYOlXZbwrVpOpwJbOX7IF//phdeuYBglQWLam15flpiNWMtXT1WBfIbBVY3dbV4a4rC0TvbGm2kf52AESHbd08YhcuTVpfT7d1pBLWMzhoSQSglGw1k7aWFmA8yW8+y7YGU1PWTT7Wv3nUDjzwbWvGwp65OG3tPUO2Z/s227p9i937zYftyYPj1jk8jICS1rf7BlvsHrYFcru6XEjIw7hpLCQhNDWPBEGt/Qn/jndrUYNJ5U9pF5e4OSV60wOC3FhscdHrtQip1lGinJi2IpB1heWWoHSYGPpUdqkoHXLEWHH6xPu+cl7zMI73Q0NxHboGa83xvLTGwcRpN7SmsJ6jduDL/2jzxw7Y+ROncTZJb1BZnJ1w60nVd1g9i9nY1GC9g0NcZA100aztGB203Tu2Wm93J7C9wd8/fhxLJCFOkV+1d3Yg4G6bnZyy4uoyVFPG7njZS2zszEm/yTSsx4EnnwRkNFsW7k8Ictfu7XbDDdfa44/st/v/42FDN4h5DXbNbS+zE4Uey/busZWmdvIiTd/LlnCN/CnayXsyWIUYPMTCWF9bi/Oi4ONiFxf+XskeSLxxUdI/GzE44TsBKMTlkuD6wrq6sPzv2kwkIhNit+jfjWKUPvPfvjaOwuV82i9UZOUzi5ZJksgiiDq5De5r7sCjdujez9mFww/bytKMLeP3UwxHN0EFSfNWQGjp5RUbGJJmF60H1DY/N2ubB3rs5uuvRkBNzuPpyldzOTtz5ozt23eN7d690xahlyTUQVzhSjrNtRRsx/bNMBczxLm0Nba023888F3r7unh2upseTkDbO+1XTt32fcfftQeevAhd7Gj5F533nWHHTxy3CbrB2xh6EabybcgfJh4H04AuLBBllDrarztQuRNQtkkKubHlnZ5RxNZRzlvcvMoG20AFbLIknsNkN0FVYLusaBwxJhk3CoW4H0EMGLB/fLXLtDGF3yrtzfxm0k1k0wWGIFZRFAzNv7M9+2bH/84KHzGEqlaW8rMYwnc+ar8FYsgayKekPa4JTXj6kS2jgwN2vWwDVOTF21ufs5SKUoYfGdhYZm/19m2rYOUPVqo9NbCqrcT33CDXOCjD3+X+FRn+667xrq7u6yeuHjw4HMoRpJjDtsywmzp7AYhDtqFs2ftnq981cb4sxGX9573/pStzJy0KQqRn77vtLWM7rO+7TtsobYVqquOYTmADR4D1SwBgNhiSr0Zik8OPtbGnDhChOUKUiy5z4q45eBCix2JPkoOgluNfyuEJfflgMMFFH93naA+8PVTxSyuRHxdEi1rgD9rZagslVyxPnIcAywcf+4R+9y//qtdms1YZpVATGyCuWOxcYcsWh5EV1vXaA2wCIObtlIczAHDB2zr6CY0vcYmyIMujF+0dDqL5iRtfn7RBTA42A16rHPeb3R4gF+geCFrF8+dhrg9ZHe88mV8dtZuuOVWW4JKEtvR1NSM62y0mcWMjW7ebA0I79TRY3b61Ck7P3bGfugdPwLjvgJ1tWqf+OgnbfOuPbb79juMZMCm6nptQXEL76Ff7aBS+uFW48RYIojfqYxSpZYFt5aImI7cnAjq9T9hQ7vIfUUWF1yenG9sYbErLZdOIk8b5WWC9ni5D9x9rrjC4onT6iaBHLQ5Gy5MWApXdml51R587HFAQ87u/cbdNkY9aXVVTZIgq+wywqnBjWVDE0qy0Xq3breGti4WwWDKm63Ie4u4u2VMLb+KQ4yQ1+LigrW3twMcWq2pod66WhqcqZi5NA7YGIZB77TiClRSX7tNXhxzd7pjz147d3HCLkxO2023vMhRmYSmDZ0mxiesgxjHofy1usZOm5yYtr/80w/ba+96ud380tvt45+912qGr7Xakb22QjnFAzyeIJZIBCM2LHacy0ShJ1iFFn3dNjmVPGN5NxvlTFGTZyTIgCVwdW5xgThwdO9009qfWPZuab/+zWm6tNLWUzNvu1Mz1pOdoNpatKeOnrR77r3Ptm/fyUIN2t/81Sds/PxFa4GPW0FwK0RpWY4spo0Y0ow1NXX1MuskTWVGt44572zaP1tf3wQjwcWRf2WySzY3Mw2U7zWwhDVSl+pqbbTbbr7Bzpw6bl09XdbcmISxSNr42aO2FUu74bqrLAtayKNQ19xwszW2dcAPzofMDqAxOT1rtalG6+C7LZC+CWIYeMv+4m8/YS996YsBJrfbH/7xf7fxxaK95M0/YuOrDVbTs81W6xpsFYV08KRkng2i1v/EY66u5ZG78wWOVrWS96sIUcGbuksLAgjf1W+A8UFMEUCJfaJ/LuRVUqDK6lrit/7le8W+VNE2tyxZa2LWZmfm7bkzM/bY/v3G/hzUi3rt0e8/Zs889bSlqN7KirKZZUvCzRWZ2u7uG/T4VN8AdbSieKXSB/wfMSgL3E5yVkgkZ9ITfFfYchHY3QOUX8XlCnF2kAjv2LYZJr2FcxZBjirHZ+2J733Pbrn+Wrvmqp0AkxkEm7Nr991gW7Zs87HJenjCJDd+DuK3vZc6FUChCUHNzS1ZV3ubnT5xxHr7h60Pd/wJYqyC+J2vutNOn5+2+ZYdNtm5FUqqnmMQXH3HzcuhhyC+clwq/z02Sd+uroJJ8C+4QCoE7PHH39igEMrDgrUGQBNzheEwHOePfucPiilp6nXbbJo52q98+1E7emwCLW8FLo/bJImn0F8aCqgAydqAf6kBKLSA4tpwXyq9Z+DxPP4QL+qp8q7wOZlyJr1szfXQTJQ8Fvh+C8BB/N70xDjxiU2qmloBHQkI3Ga7SHzZsXWzveiWm0l6WyFiz5Mjz1pmcd6GYNM7u7r8HDksVMzI69/4Jo6fsQ6+e/bsOWvAjba0NltnBy6U86UprzRi7SmuRwz8dwEoRdzvtdddy3HnbGE1YSdg4ufrO20hybGpbyUBGleqEZctqrzOsWhD9bcMpyPRlmpUJctzrKDPRT7PrWotzRWssKw0Luxffecbi/0DOywNND9INfX42LKt4L6WZidtAk1tbWvFYpqgbaZcg9v4dz0gIknyu0oDigCF4sPc3ALkK7EOzZoXx0d+tALbUMC/1XETMzOU3xGaaCVpTRML24igGqGiWnB/W7cMc45pQMiQ7b1ql509c4LYuGwFrLcR5RgYGWXRmaSHWZ+BVhJLIlBx0403wbJTPuE6mlGcOgSjmKX2NJVWlpYWQJRd/LnkYER/JiixNGK1U4ntmi4AACAASURBVGnSCtDgc1MJm2ve5NygJ/kb9H2tRcV50pqoEi1+CblFhhNbVCULUu75iAWrWmKE+KJzV+Zw/t1fef9/KZ44dsmmqf1Mz2I1RcoTlIoz5EoFYkwSaJxqJGgjlDq0P4mWLqeXCNqQrfyXRDiKQ03NrfzJ9CDaXIdA6hBAHcKcI/gXsbA01tXI62msQBGhf2AA7e/wBLivqxPhJ2wM6qgXDm8EQNE/0Oevnz1+zONgE3GprqnFuqGcatH8vCbs8RY3AywmsNAsbMYoLnGa3E1urLW1k7jVhDLliHkpO6bjqKeDUovv4IWyyJUrKp2cWCRJBoC0UI6pcFXr5VXi8aIYs+azJSth0V3ggtdezA2YPPZ2nqOtrfDKaSaFBaO0ID5vyRPrfDuvvqFYD6NAuZQYM4/GYSUN3AxnqSeZnaWepDikBpRl3JCCbx3CyxMPlCCr/UsanSE+6UZWASKiaPLi2mTm8v0IKrfCtDuAQrGtgVpVW2enraIIc1ja6MgAsaXOejrabB+Mg1S6hfJ9F+4un8HdUZqfml+wvftutNmpcWuhntXe0mYLoMnBTVtgOY7RNDNOgXKHsxxJLLge/rFY1+wxUznakSNHUKZmipNwi1K2zAoFyR7QZRaov2yn8q12tKY/VAUuY1Hxy5V0UWlRK0sSMeiIaKWydUQJb1Q1LpXcEZIsyp1gRbK9pvd879U34bo13SBUZpQmZBFN+P+0L7Di0aZNo47lM7iyZWJNA25N7i+znLY6UNcqcUe5bz7a0USBUVYWgrsAQ8FmyYca0HCVMJpwn2pJq+ecW7aM2DWQtQUsVnu6vOTWGx06qzzy3HMH7NLFcdsBP3jmNCUQ4ppAxo5dW621uQ3FSHLcBVwiZQ2UpQ9iVuBkGiteAvkNj27F1eYQSCvXxwUS23Ig0hxsh9xiqqHNWgE4tSjm45douilwTLXKCXGVLACqCcHneT0if8j1lHGpqUfrFqq7el8CpHUkbBHk6y6eUREI4OXUUWhnjtFeLAidS5OWFWHL/xr3Uno027x9l7yj26c+q/sRI5ZF0zLcfBPc3Sistjj6VYLxCjyc2JccSaUbuI4vbUCQyVQD7iXl3KAO1gTZOgsUF4AYn7xknbAJtVjUJLGov7ffhvu67CUvvgmlUPtX0b5xz7espb3Lfvhtb7ZF2suOHz8CEmy27o5O/23Hban4WEeKsEjCOzczB520bDt37vRrE/VUgA5rxg2fPzeGXLBe0KjoKxHEEn6G+xIiTWFx8/RwdNQnLA2wOJvotxM1PV4l9vtxbEByLKEggQK/tfISLkB6D+NaU4zTNeAQkbNqT4AXAGXCoSJFCUo/rKAvWFGc3BowETHvFZZcSWm5Gx3Zsr2ockIBq5L21XJz8us5rEkLrBvs7e3108iEnXtDADlAwRKJa7BURI2lCFQo21frl5pYmunP098FXS9OXHRByULHSFwHoZpedPONKGUW+ueY/dIv/Jx9/9FH7UMf/nN7/WtfZXe94sU2Pz1B6WPIE8w+mjaPHj5s/cNDNrh5kxOziodHDh62LaBFXWMaoNDSQqMN17y4mAbATPu1dkIGp2X9xA55hAH6CYt1ACKsIAETMw2cJ2W2iZYtwH4gP2xJkevM4SaKtFPLjdcweSImXjujFcRvCo4jBOftnHrzrBVR8XexLfoMuV8S6wq9mVJ/WaCXn4NIKlB63PpWyeiXZpnljvHxxSbAwjI3ovKETF/NkQsLC84uK05oEaanZqB/uDHOmoNxkHuSsCQkgYgkN97NYuYQbhak1wpUrsfVZLFK9U5oj6AmqrhZviPjF/3TQaJ76NkDNtTbbq9/zSvJl3aHCu6Rw3bjvqtAg5C+JL6Z9CLxccm2ARZyHEel+c3bdqFENMlwjR2AklXOsUyuJqXIkL8JERa4FnmhkU2bgP8XyNGSdoxY1QpcH6EnA7zj6JPuHHvsqefs4Kk50oAeL7u00CrQ2NpmjZ39BMwWW4acTlOQ9Poxu0mDZWBjsCwUPMF5ig0051Ank+sbP30WtLpovfQt6nO11OpqATJzCD7Lr+zLIUXlNGOFNZVlGATqqK93cATlYcfkRhAS9JD8mrtp3tSCN2IVch+LQnNYjfKeHNye9COlVjE+t8rVNPD9en5z/L2W1+tBfEKKOs4qsU2v6TNCRLXcoFqam9hXQsdMIdC6ZODftgDPnzt40Pbu3WVvfNObuIa0HXluP6gOeqtv2Lbt3E09a8pOnT5lm+ASdcdSKsH+3bzXATqcnJpkgVZsij87aKFuAniIx5S1H4Lc7ejudzc6dvKwXXXzbTSIttnTD91v37t/v42MbrZzF2j6pDFUPfjduP1ZQFDL0BYb2LLHBxpq1JfY1GZFyOsVun9bQKzpC4fsP77+NWaE1EIya/t2bLIU1zILANsKs5OnRFOENK7vHfI1ds/qcSnOp0IAWpsKx5aHoHZffS0xHymjnTkuqAkIPDtPGQOXpQMp98mD9JJoY5I4tIKPF+MtQcniBCAUH8ROCCjE0xsqmAlUKDmVW8iC3lRiF4yX+a/k0lbPLs1bR7fYzh07Od+87X/8Efvht/yAff+xJ0jAr7Vbbr0JchXwwv7orXz3BLRWI9+vxbWJihkc6LdZWs2egjXRNTYRd8Sk9EBPLbBAoqOmpgAxvN6O1amH48LFC7aFcr/2DJyfHLOuTdtoFu2yY088YgeeOAhZ3Gcnjx4HLJHzkUpkAVUL8hCg1C7e8xyTRpr2wU3WvxXFIEdLJYs2cfhZu/fubyLkS55C3Hbr1d6IWsP6NKKcKmRuf+lrLNM+hGVBBmD1q3Kt6g8Rb8ivMrgwcBS1ukaxUuNLiasRlPKKDPSMyFOhoYXFOa/xSwBtaJver0G7HAlyIIEExQ2VN+TK5C5D4KbmpM8AY+rIrxqxROmECFnB5FY0bAlXmGQR1O7cwlMEtgAOVK1txq/v2rHDprGOxYV5EOWSbSafKoAc1R8xQYybnYVGQlF2795FUfEM/X9D1gDYWcJt6/pVV5udmrDtO/dAVzEYh+uaoRipjqYs4Eddtw3EsGXOoQVsRXhdCLYLN51HcSb4rJRqGuGupnFXqlsB4xdnZu3SxITNzc4ibOIybj5FL6O8RNdQv43u5Ppx0Wfo7H32wBFa5GZsJ8j01he/yBoBWAmEW0Nr3JHxKXv06Ji1UJ7Ze9UOG6AZKE17tjyYvOBCehX3nIMgKAA79CwMGV9oC0gMDAwUu7t7qRct4sJAsDowC50lDgl6K5vXTwb6pgHrkoAysAXKo8TvCc7L8lJ8T4KSEijPUiLcoKDOoogplmCKCFv9DLK+AoF599ZhmjHJqaj4bqUH4gTlike/v59P5Ow2bvI1r32NJ8qbBnrtnrvvxnqm7ZV3vMJBwnNPPWn7rt3nMWaea1AivYcFQyusgWuu4XomgOm6S8W3Lkr/SnhrYVcmxsaofQ3R4ElTDRziUB/MO676MMCks70DC+uHaZnj/lMAgxTCn/b8S5o/Td7XD00lSD0Hek2jrAOkD5nMEgQBYKyGVAFLOQZircHdpfAAip+XYPPv/ca3bHJmmc8P2Gtf93IbuzALRzlsu66/3np2XG/zeayLyRZZ1SpxE2TjW/vVqLrR0d5e7BAa440G3J6QTgZkJ2tRYNaCSxAq+MmzNsEkyGxXBM9xa4oNkng9pYN2gqn6HRqbyLFYOKE+9Q3MkTR3YZmypFpufJF4U4dW7t25Bea9ibjSCpveaa3kXLKsz//bF4h3rXYjEx53vebVsBMHYcuhguhcEkg5cfKEL7bOd9319EiI18Oy8lyTyi7PPnfQroO81WvnAREiCkZGNoH8lh3NplwBW7CuNpSmHnSWsenxMTtz7IQrXx3XfQnr6sSFzmHd8hptfF75oupimxGyKgTzvCfF01otweYrzu/Ajet6vv71u+3fvv4dG5sFidLHqDzp5r3XECsbbM/V2+y2W/bYsUMnnHqb572b3vJTNrD7Zvc4MpQcEL6Zte9ugvlBQROtLa3FZrSyra3TOb0E0ptFy+SzBCLEjYkIbaSMoAsVR7YExJVKpbAwCVGTHHJ/TY0QmwhvaXkB354lZmDWHGcFQNCC1YhaEgpKczz1nI9Ctu7ZsxNtG+fGc3b1nl22BfgtSP/dRx61/U8+YR/84B/Z/fd9y177mlfZARLgnTu225mzZ6xJKGqORdu61bnDLMcUCSyX298/4GFZ0PksQwpdlPBXiTMjNMCkcc3Hjh4lBl6PwgKimDbJM1CXx0scx6KUY8VjqY7s5LJBfSvEWMXrBs6rQmlWXVayVtanAOrVZ0SvqWlUa7iCNfz+h/7Kxheytm0zYAKL6wBdM8tnN7/oenvT615iWRpOz+LCl/ACAze8whqG93IfXDfQvo71fvKhB+yBz3/K9g1AfqNZRWmCzL2WHgi3KBa2gTikHwnJiVT+qyNZVcxQshun7sqzZFE5oH0PwVYJ7+SkSFFQLcdVjFqgDF8DWqxHU7MIuxlLUHl9tK/Drr2WWpMCKya/jckOWV43HUw5kOL+/d+HtbjKid4kLusiLIUS7m1bafIEig8rH+IEOXz2mbPnbZixnSE4ROVHsvZnDjyDBbbB2rd7zOvp7HJILJTYjrWIC5EmNTckIaGn7fCzz3h9S2uQU07J30V5qQVAx1R+tsrrWhvwAIKiXYHPqOkzr1BRX0uv/Rl1JyCwGvvLf/oSqA9rxKKXQYIjKFV9azctBrvt1hu2U1VY5ngrUGqt1rHtRlul7OKtbkDHtuZ2+96999hnP/E/rbcVYAb2B0xIC+lXgOLJoR3LSF8LLnge81SaIpSPXiKnSZIM1tE7IYCgRFJWJRivfEzMw5LUhh81rDgy5Mp1PKE9FeIk2M4uio244YHuDttNI0sbpQ2VSUaB5+24wzN0IF1z9V5PByYvnsd6ZunFaAE299v09IwntCscd2hohPytF3d4ih73QRSuB6Es2pFDBzkOaA/hSDmG1I/BfWoqZAH3peYb0UopxU6sQ91UDzz4oOUADyoNzRKLhkaGQcENbiW6B4GrPqyzFWVaYS0Wce9tuNdVrFQ/it9zPMZCG0am6lrtjz/2GTszNmUjorBY0+YeeEgq0Ht2bbFXgAprMIIZXKb4ioG9N1jLrheRJzZYCvesYup9X/mSfekzn7bNxNAEcLmoppNuCm8NcF5afAGFVZm32rkcCisGEQO40DQuQrUtBxy8H7dcydpkaXlUvEajobgQaXVMNPrzkfAl+rzco8jdLuihW0hsRwa6PLFug1BtUFKNXs1RM7rhhn0oUK9999v32IkjuKt91yOcApaziRxqsy+m8jZxldL8JRGtJKrQd9TSLlkri5wGJZJ1eFIsZZIyCFwUZQX5FXd1CyC5bpj6C1jsONRTA+sh/k5Ao52FlfsW/Jf32ETyrNxukb7DBso0gvAZYlUCD7FABaKNpp/6BvVltNv/82d/b0dPnbftNJ0mgPQdPW2WQVkGGXx40523kXaQkAtc0XRT29Rtzdfdbsts15pkjTobC/a5j/9Pu/vL/2Y7tmwBTHR2FcWNNUYkp266AWZCW29K8+XTvdrIwQoETSEYIbY8flX/FnTXr6xKLjIkzMB1uQTu0OMH/l0MRTua6L110TxuN6z2rTfto9+vjeZK4LSDiQYC/wg+nzoYiyjwgsOxC4CH3v5+O3bihDMNslDlRo89/pjtooFF571wAZqK1xawPnUzjeIKZTWas5qnJU3CCkmmYg/uiHKN7kd9hm0UIGcokua41g7c5cTMlLMtBaQsYYpe03VnPXlncQFeGZmClA+lzoleEv2EOQqMzcwU7AN//FEfPO+CYalRJ/Fgl80Tg1rAA7/w02+3Zu1Uw4Wkahttkp1rum64jW5gWBbgeXZ6zL7yP/7MTh8/6miVGNVaHEJDF5covmE1uo9VNE3tXu62FBy5nmZ8pl5TIpwlTjTq5GLUEYBAhv6uP7UQAiFlul7JbsabQQT1/WaFooC7HR3NNkoeNTzU68MDq9ygGPnrQXLqqdCxdax6lfBZCMWgeWCzYkwzcaKfCcX7H3iABH3ebnvRi3GXpynN1NkAg3M+ua7rRuCarhca7aZ0ItgtF7hMaUPJewoeSenlECmASNdTR455nU263oirXcLF6rrlxnVerUczqFatAAUQnKDzzPQlrznVk7tNY8lKjA48d87+8CMf91ytCRffxPDe9m0aoMDNcqxfe99/sUGGJKYZlljFKnMoRcfIdq4fMgFv1YYV/vWffhRF/B73PWIJuK1iK8HWt7xJaoE9RXX3J2ge74NeoyeDOWgAWDhtHoTonB9xTYKREGRFmnWSdakjSNaoRFFWJvcoX6/uDVnPJlCfmHTVj979Uz+KNbExCAlrQG013rcn2N+Nb1+ELRFnKDekpLeG8+7dcxUl/mXmfM/7d6bhAIUwd+3ajbVknF1QXFxSjwf3ogWXoJQ61CHQzs52Fh+Izb0qz2uFHzxz4pSTrPX8XSUR8YX1LKLuQ4rjCX8DA+CYU1qtZwCwRmppAjn1rN8C7QN8y/Y/dco+/Jef5u8aJscdwl7soVtYhLcIg62jI9TClu0HXvda275nOwBLRU4Unz77CRLjZ89esHv+7W5ywTHKMKhO/8Bw2FMWqKqpCd2YmG8d0K0paolJckGrCEQ5g7qPyptaaN0Ds66PyqoCTOaxrbgM/XtFnKFmeBXzgLj6aQUW30V30An68Z54cr+95fV32SteeguXIXhbg7Ux6EbM1HEFXNrInxawHFnzGJaTBdRs3brDtu/YBRqc8JxJrMH5C+dtz949ToXJ3YnWUhtAJ9YkuK7KsFy2qgUtgA0p1gqITT0gBbQ9xzWqk1fkchPvz2Ehyh+VN2rrBX13ZvoCwIvKALWMBPE4S7xSOG6H/0unFyBrzQ4cOmd/9JFP2iyT/TU8uraOksdNINw6XPY8rMexY0ed6dmCwFpYi5fTLbV1207cdtZOXJyyhx5/0mbhHNs7G20KgJIYHBpxElfWIF+oCUJl74Ll3ofneZLIWJjwCDyEmCShcBFR14y+L/SoAqB+BUI8UUbYYU9w3IlYdtFRvmFIwV535+12/Q3X2/Gjh7wXoquDetNQd6gY81mxHWpjlsZ20IpWz+LksdRDT+3negE1gBt1GdUDBJoQqmisWXK8epJmlf25ED+GSjeh6LkU7kWAAstrVg+gILe77qjHHoXSOGsdFFErSe4CQxGCgeoX0U23IrwCFl2LEk7B5tTSz7hEXFMu1cLxpvEQTYAWWd8v/86f2rHzatcmDlEmuema3SgUzTjwgZMoQIHr15qIGBDbM0A55rZbb+XaVixDwptBFqfPnLI5yGUsaqioHEjJnPKpDHxfAvWQ39biB8AQKCH9eOOiFxjD0170uoQgFyLm18ey1V+Bm9MCOLzX68Q3HzzQ91Q+AZ1tZXhAbcub6JC9NH4Ba82R0I56kj2I21N5ZZagru4lJeSzJLhKQDtpL8vnllS+s4ce/p5dd/tLKCVAU4HCMpw7JyGw4NJUMSrKs7xFmTip+3TKk3tU1UCKpOl9wXMl5WoKXcKdSsC6DvW/t5IuKMmVpSk1ESWm+xFIWeW8iuKI35kPgS/duwjpD/zJx+z+h5+xer7fjFe4dtc2j7nj45PegiC0LYyrMtEy8bkHQLNCTil2pBFmRgXGl+F1njtwwBJ9/UMAE6E0yg1ijCEQ8yARdRjFwvETa8GdkidGcGP6u16PH/UmTk5ITwhPgdddnghbvqcGGcFn0UmKUbKoLoLs1i2bvBWsAe3UYqjfvAcqaYjGFu3W3I67m56e9IC8GYg6r6ZLJaho5bnTxxhYQ5E4fv/WLZYFHCherMg146acvlIlWq4YDZWAvBGHvzdzXJXIQ+sZuRUxSxbVTNxsh+vLcA+yKLnOVRpGVdTTmKsAkCxB9yxUKmgtFqJGiTGhY3ICAZDcq+o8BND54Ec/ZV/48rehpFh4WIuroMzUl7+4nCWeTrnQFA/TIMoFBNyLR9HGkoKVHkrkscSoS8k3jW4pql/OYwEX10hJAFE5J6bYI4uSIIX4giWpHB8EEHd16v2QczFpoUbLyBq1EHKB/pwKf8oN7whw8F31MexivqkF+K0+dAlF2yGkyO53wqZ3YnFtxA21pTW3tkOWtrl1aWa3EwZkCYb/M3//j/b6173GhtHUNNbmgCfKwxQPpQCqqs7iolKC2srhUBrxjHGrsgCGFlZ5owa/Oyj5K47JNwitLnIe9WHkxdDgPpU/JlknWZxwfvAoVINp7lGbmqxQing1jMqff+x/2Z//7T8DXKi/ceydVAMalEBzjcoBxXLIosR/ZhQnsTqVJuvEN6JYi3B8ug5ds7s+xSgdXCUO3ewyPrge+K2M3Hdk8boSMxBopxCelzgioOElEMWsyBU691VhjfqetFoni4ePlfgOAD/37tzMYizRb76Jm1Eb2iK5Ty9t1NtgBTbRUKkGllqE2OHgYZbSfK34NlqohT6/+637fI+KAbpse7C6ZbizrGIF1ulDcFBRc7AQmh5p8+FuKULK3ZNQnQQnyC5Xt0j9SnyjLEWJ8TJaL3AipRNKk2Uv8+9hmJMFmBc1dsrKVMqRlzh75hxgh/fhE2WJu+nj+NQX77E/+vDHPMbp86OMxdapA4oibJx71kOGr2i/DLrAunB9SRRhCQt32ox7X9HgF38mevsGi0rm4kquBKFfCUoshTRFDEOpwwhrkBbKWiRICcVdCFqqxEV+OvR76IkvVHqxKG0Kot4F5S/FiI5RjLr52t1QThCjgsLZRbsBVNTYzEQ9ZO4gnF092tcBWyF3rH48kbU5zqeKrSxkkXLHxYsgIuLLMEXErg74O9KLpaV5jyUqPSwzs6WKcieAQ1YvjV9U1y4uSI07ugcBBG2zoIp0IzSY8km5yFkSZ/VLqHgoZmWWxs9tKNE8CjGCghw6/BxuuNEFU4CEPUkJfh4hqiOrFqt78NBRe/jAIc/LRIUpH+xCYAtnx4nJF20YhqINbyEu1BKgSpgaxeAlPFwK4BSXexVjEz29g0UhFLkDtSt7LoRj0MZRIielbTJDb5ZHAt43obiDpegmlTTKujxI8xktgupRwZXymagCLLjulUtVMvnthZUY7KIiC1veB+OgzP3avdtLzR8D8Fv9JKF5yFq1K2tEVH0bXfQ0CKZ7pw9pgoJvA/FvkZvNE3w3M1GShnFQgiy6S1bUCKuveKA61rx6QVQNBmi0E3OW+LfQaxNVAa1MfaoVLg9+EPc+QyeUiphyd9oaSL2NssCLTLXoek6cOukFzUOHD3kOpN6LmUXgPSwONUA7jqBn8R7KUTXZkqSw2cnf02xuMnmBKRWSeg3gLKHc9WzO345xSFm0wUoaA3HQg6fzngnKy/xJOV0WgpD0hppS3J1x6cFSAAecUItf+ZxYuUQRlfoJr6v0QVLLyVT2FvWvvEmKICZaeYoYCjHTPdBG2zb3OBOtxRxhnupVd9zOha7gGuaJUZ20lPV5PlZPHOtCcNrR5wjMgfrL67HqpNqpoaUuaKIeNfB8huuVhatLt424Jnct5ZJrn9ScFrlJFzFRjTkdvK+FkaV6xZm4WYegNN+r5pt5EJ9gcwble/qpp5w+ksBz3LfqVWeZblFvoWLWqkABiDmr2T4aYRbgHU9P0t00T6qBhaiEqyaXmkUmT2g7GOyB6UG2sh4JpAaF1FCGYpS83ZJGlSSoaG0TbW0dRSdJuSFZhha8XlAcoUgXFDRVsQyVfDEPgddTnFJs8xjFIui7cpnqhpLrk9BVERb5GirAga1oUD84rnCgv4dWsG5cE+1bNJJso+VL/Xd3vPRWm7h4FkF2AyDY7IqKabJBikLlFrf0xGP7md9lPhfFiadIZM1KMRTjJABRPUo1xO0pf5rCZblrx+2cpv6jOxkh1ijOafMRWaULit712vpWLGYal9vJ3hYXyfGOOpSWe/OQoHsCFctKl8ROZAgPLKw2glRvkIZ4MAZc4LKNXVq2iWkoNvhC7TmRBIglV5dseuw4KQbPzmIOLAss1zXnSJQlqJQMBG+xSFIswtlzTn4TlJ6Lcc4TW0aOCxeroIb7FbRdliJNDVm9Omo1ZK2BZRGwcm/0TkTJsNCihKi4FvIUfQetVmlECqBuWiQ5Qum9uanWttDOPEBSu8AzDpeBxR/6g9+2b937FW+v7qVbaDudPw3ELXXedtEyMA7xKmQ2Bkkr5WrHFaphZnZ2HgtqBE2RHHobVWikXICFT5BsBsSHa8L9qdzeC1vvyTnXK9itGLLMPbS09drZsQl74OGHQGLLgB0qAiiqPIruV6DA53A5lnoLC9rjCQmtIIw0pXiv56Gcmue6NJ22S3MZFFQWQyFW/BfAYWr8HKNH56y7uYbraCUuqRsfb4DLSCi94NozHDMfbX4sj5Rob22jzBFKGZKcN7qg5U7rc1HqTpJ7E2AVKpT5y+UpENfwbwlCn5W7k8ZJaLLQmCWXBcrCnCNUTuAT4AgKolGjoVezpc4KridDx3+GG/ron3/E7v7q52184oQPyG3fusdLHYopaQK1AqsWS6VwWaDSDvVGqMmlSAwYGzsDggzwWRavGFcP16bzK0/UdXdToxL/KGJXbdeexAp8sNDtXQOMydbYv3zmM7glhsN961RyR4Esd/+hddl5z9Ag4mWUNAubgxlXJTPLNWoUaR6Lm2VqM8ufatZUz5/enwNBZmDHsxJWaz3DEDDxaRJrrFqub3kJ908bWg3GIdefxnASHW3t3oUUuzAvVfCjP0MSHAhJXYyguvy/PitfLdeYY6W08LIox3oCI7oJXpfGy/IUn5RRasaqBZSkknUf27wNdbfaVeQbab47zQCdyul/+Pu/C1wfJCc5i/VQomecvYUiWhtsBM3wtsRntSjL5EZqjFF2NqF9K0iSF3htlqKikkrxjZo4Ef0kxkFcoJh/Jd1KXszWfgAAIABJREFUUNUQo36NWuohBY6rRpJl5n4Hd9CYyXH/4e8/Rd/7JIut/nFxmUrWw+b5cnFyvUKYRfWz84JGdlRG1wNo9FhW9BbLKjgKVIzSML7imTRLkycZFGVl9qItTBy30d4mayd/rEdZPPdD+RZIDyRwXass3QUVU0Hxn7IsCUS/gbD11M4BRkBzuEU3/RA75FYklFDNVX8dUFzukV81QaoiqrqQ8g7xZxka+EcY+dw61EWFdti1TxqrXOvHfvRtJIu76KO4QFfScVrI9tBRhOUykL1EcFe78TI3nse1qHkzoLkZBw55jqOhCrltv2ysVzSStlJVf6C2+4lHZwITLgySwBqZ6ZXIEwzC0T5WB/Pxsb/7WzsB3NaH/NH1Cr46tvJKPAmBnevGk4i30EyzCF+tGwJZQWCil9K8n+VXtJxTc/IpopxY1wW1pC1OYVmn2e99gZJHPQkvx8Y1JkCPmo4RzBe95H2xcn1eGIxgoC5GVhSKZIGxcOiBNsj3hwqtmgYVBqgxgexiukicWQuaqwVUUqnj6LgqRKqEr95AzdYuA2H3sGvYzi293tCvzpsumGmV29/yptfZi158C67vIhp9EYtosj5ag0W0zjNMJ2CQxjX3Cq4jIMU9F4CUBhfRR2lfQrh06ZIrk3abESsggCFw0aJGFa5T5RAF7RSgI0neJAZETZB9xMXpyTn7l69+2U5hqWIOdD8CVHJ77t4Vl9VEKsQL4VsnN8v7anaRg19kkTPapgGXl8EiV/h3VoJSuxyCzAENM1Beq4vaJRK2Zea0tadAwnTgqiYmVKzYL0pM9yVhJ9roQqrk7BRv1m4dHVVk1WdWopQCMEhwc0pqA+LLheAOm6BSgecGYhHQ+CZtQgUsLaAa/T39uLVL9B502s3XsUEV2qzuJ3UKKVnetWXU3vO+X/C+wsOQkaeocKq/4arr9jFMcA5EOEYHEgEctJTi2KKflJepOfOZJx+jzN1LHWsAKC76BWvxawgeQPFJgpIFKsYoZrUCLNTxMz8zjjs6jwV22f3fedTGcKMLyCFNRlEvushnXtxMfTMRyUjuT8IWiBZwEjJeYFGXWOhlLGqJ72qR1dOfzWrcR2UjMABIcYUD51HeBOO4i5dOWSI9yRZ6IE+mS3wXHWEEhR7ilNiJRFNDI6Ss0JtMP/TxadFjWFjaw07NLYLsit6R1WkU1It4UanD3aKqpxq/jJNiUUsBqTjrrNZkAY9+Rm5ecdt1TGJsZd6JQh/o6hRldiK6vfu//ldrBZXNQBmNnTrGdPxJu4o+vQL7AKq/T00rk+Nn3LI6YS7UndvAYi4uTfvUonr22pVrIQDB8yRxSEy8KB65d9FQKW3qKIvzfLHo53l2//1s4UOMaGwncSWZpt6U8RCgSX/1rqv6jQtXEi+gos4slYYQkBJUDQCsINACx0izuIsIRjvarAKU1C4umO69+rjKVTbhKlDNXgBQLKu+xaZeSSoC7U3sMsBYke/kIjfo64hltTY1Ew+F/dWkHxJacXNKVOP9VeXC6tF6BX3xWnF9yt8XFI96JqQF+pFliJYS2yF3qRwmPFgRreLihPh+8M2vt9fS4NGlbQz47ByDbrOgIe1p8LK73sQGWORQddwgyGuFTbEWCcpHT54mDtFRpIE1xkMvAtFF+WjouwBLUcOWCVNwfHp965atkLoqWSxSUoctZ/GUYqj6nMIVa6wG7oxOqJSdZJznyf2P2akLZ+ylr3kdO5QV7ODhU0LSKFDaWQrxbjHB7DU2xTQsUqhQAlpGCFK2HAXJnJc+AhLUe5rmX0FYyqXSfEYIVz0oq4CKRYS0MjuF0Ii/DOnR7McWDPRP0L+e1IguSbxkkWjBomL6x0GELkpvCOlFxUMvEXBDabRdOZLgt296gYoJ1ooT9CKjAEM0zeFMgTRR3CDBeRXCU2SkOny6yINUKFylFK3pxhZizM4dm32buG42Bb79la+1bvoentj/Pbtmz7Xe4HL0+DG6hMZoJxvg5i7CGkyxcLATlL8V8VdX6eMAxUlrsyA+5UfqMVfiqu1O66m+KtWoQ1Ozy+xhC0twkYGBoyS0J48dZwqyDeSWog9jhFJJLUDiPETsHI2ncpnAeM6itXFlpK1OIzfaaI4QRHKKAsNmSG81FqQeDe0MkC+ISmKxveRDPikEyXsZuMsscUqjsRomz7DpV3GJ/I9rWlmYJJ9iKIG+DKUkcs/yWok2LCowDSRzWI5AgFxa3CsRuzlZhjRLn3GeT0kwMFtYwxMy/hIqwmIrFHyV9EHWqvXKobo2D1FHrbZGA2DgMjQqmqSsoq0N1Fa8RL9BHXnPJz75P+wtb3+jfe6f/9VuvOZWtorrZ6JiyeemhqlfnT16EAsX4mvx0oxyJAEWgR9poCb56wAQ0zSdNOPGhgYAIyy4htEWtC8TnblnsM6nDh+0vBgL4pyaVbI0S7aI8MVljgMkFmj4WU1w/ViP4pEYCFXBKfG6dynoWSJq9cLtasMTzx0dCeuzQn1F6kzMg6kyocG76Xmf/Jcr1SB4HuGJAyymIXWXp9gMbA5BXfJ9LxoZ5VFsbcGNa1ETEIPUozTTGnrMdbM+1c3Cx2hQwvJtgyLX6EhOjf4kB0p+Y5cXevtERcknE0nFEIhy4t9ioDUTpffclWpyHivtGRj2TRhnWdQ52rU6oWb++m9+127Yt9vOHJ9Cy9gMGBZDUxcPPHg/HadsJgI6GqChUsyDiFeRyRfGxkGO3d7j1461auMStYG1IqgEcFmjpnU0mFwaO2sPPvQdu8iMldxrK7WtBWm4chYN8dFMo+CvwT6lDUrC1auo9mc9LQEtdkZdHiOvaUL2gFIfo5J5dc6qIUauPC32HUHzdf++dkUrch3eAMovm+0Sz6ki02yTnsOacguEBQhgGJkisUq7yTRovhgPJporQYNhUaVfCSXOhzyB1m9UxfVmEK80Jr03T4Sr2HXvK6fZRDfoCTC2r2qpFlA1p7S4PW/ex/RV/sBNamrdJxTVDSKGA9Sl/oM0BbostaMEMPa3f/un7a0/+Bbe7oJvm7AtdNIqgD9z4GkaW47bMF1Jm9iNRW1VcxTXdO7ZGfIkyvUSmlsUxx+nlFADcCGXBHKzuQnx63H2/VvAHSVh5HPEDs1USem08BrpbKH2pSbPabQ/I1oImfiAn9IXrE6uPDTEqElVuwCoNqfRWAkRa+I6xfsJqQmqiz4Q0NBnKDk5c5ORt2GPixz5ZIF1wbTY6x1hrWIw7NqZmWcfDc1KY7maiFFDKbveMAUUnTxugk9E4CBuAfMiobPjoW3XN/RAAIHMDfu2utXxAbnE2PUpo5YlrhLblORpckKBXw322hewARdTi2vUAHQnLc2dQOejB/bb7/3ee+3n3vd+IHPCTo8d8icWqIUqqSvGNU5eOAtf18NA2jbyo+moBQvLATDI0haB6vrVVOJ11+21e77wz3YKaF9DZ1IeC2P20/f3czaGFEPIUBMq6ulI0auwRCy5NEM5BEJYYEGoPJR33K04l+ftdeRQsibxisvAbYUHMeuyJtXvAHa+v64Q4ApK0dmCEmDx6rJdmF4gNsFDqiTDGi6BYBtV4WXf93QkqBoEKH1uxI0jI83gh14IL69HbK3ckzQ1TloF3aWBCmw+Va5YJRcZfc/bxKJYpeqpFkGzVqrd6PjSDC9pCWHil5UgtjSTgKL9cqlNFAZlBeePPGMf+aNfsx//mZ8lZ6IweP6sP5N5DopJWxZsZZpjiXh14eRJOLt2AjmdRSy2yiUtrV3s/kxR7uQBpvxyNrp1i913/wNsyvgdJul7ecbHdoCCYqm2MNUQNXFWlA1/XppkE0dAhNxbHs+Rk/Uo1YDK0XVrS/DQYEqfoLA5AlMhNKbJijzsRflWQt5BeZSTBaKboLsclNGTAUJNFukrQXiLuNY8LjdDypCGSM4L4KCEsqicYhZrpB3cCqrHIUBxDkFKlT9CCApg/CkrU5LYRAbvzZP8xDUpj2cer1QKCe/J+lTS0CKEnZD1VDX6+HCZEmTcbarmSHGHzSA+3+fI2fc8gjpov/1LP23v+tmfRPG1NdwsOzbP+rD07p1XWRdTJ9OUxJdITjtAiJOT82xmv5vNG4XkmH9augRvxkZWbFh1/4PfsSk2OMkQHxrY/EODZdo8S/cmtluWr2l+ab+azZNYmnjsLFqvmJVQ44tqFoq1Cg2KNVJkFXxEl8lbiKnQXWJZeV6Ql/SxHVW7lTup5INyChlrSn4Vl7dMpSArMlt0G+fUE4MWaLRcnueJQFSn8xnyPX+chep3CA6BBYt6nh/nADmZsmTtsyfgoYaQOKmV4BwtqugoHtB5PjVsqF1MVIuAhRATUFMNjmIwiE2aFhQz7BPz2rIHt3rq4LP2wd/6eXsrqC/ZOmDjNCMWaWB89pmn2XhxlGrwJqeUsmyKryfenDlxkp6/HofqBZ4P8v0H77Yp6KNjoDrB6GYGnKfUo8C1i5IRcedjNZFlabHVyaQ24zrNKWMVqrqqCCjkpujsNTWvYgEZ9DndjCrMDi6wSL6n6Xul9qKLdEyfnYKNEDEry1T80pioRjemmGBMiCsVGGJbozSxeQk6Sa04ebY2yjGcUITbVHlGqQTo4jIWVSG4mMT0fX2iMoj8tepNcn9KZvW6EJ+EoPZfaazciWoy3jBDrUcdrjJUuc1FLkzAJEV+5TkaglZNaIZZ2XHGbX7nV37S3vGjb7G2gd24onrooUvM4l5w1rmN2HTNvhdxS0l6JsbtoW//u+29mol1NrL/+he/YN++915nHRIIToIqgKzkitQ2HYqjCvYAbh9iCBvhB2KVv6lexmvq1XOWXPFWNBn3J2sSQBC5nK9RuzPHU83LLZKvIUyVS8IxAzCrBdlp9zXKEx631O+uMKsJBerpXhRdofHm4rnzIEF2HZVt0udRZCvYVdCsOqNAFb5DaHXXV8XCwh7eYfBXP961xAXILYYOWzkAmuER3KpqUghR7kWIyifxOKk4NgVtLyjKSkFcmxgSUGliCV+t46Qx/198z5vt7W9/s+259VWsWyfuirFL5D87ed4eZ8b3pS9/NaV4NqViv4cZtg148uFv2cFDz9pZ3OASqq19kHL0MIiPC48B1K4rjoQQPPFHqEitaarDyRpEDQmtET8kNLk+cXUuUDyC93uI05PAVJtCeTQfFXJGeRqEjvvSGI8z5M7CiDCI8irlmgiqqN0HBO/5T+UaCSqFsMcBOtrEXygvh2UpRqkJKLSsAWpI5sUzlvZG8uYhv62IMQ8gJ5Dn+n91yZY+EwbVVO31yi1v+xYHcnuUKwT5xS4rJws3G9ylB18vkYRedd3kqlp40TbP37jYX33vW+1n3vNjJKJbrLEDaA58qq3DZbHXrdza0MAI54VZOHPEvvy5z9qJ46cQXJct44bmvS6mK9Y2qiEN0K9vDSomWnvf6J60hbiXvcP+E54X8V4eC8gr3shlq3kHr+28noSuRF/ro+FnXbfooqjqDawttcQpb1Tcy/BaRgyFW5jWB+RM0FJclEdZgU5aFVHLdWZpV1uESspMXaDRB9jOd7UvxxKKm5MQfQsx2a7Uo5RAlU0qFl7plYAzwk/Fm94SxYUA90M9SEFXVii3RjwKk/DEKe3j55VgNBj0towb1AMrNa/kCkHb1M+/8y32i+/7CVwM1tq9wxdGhT3xbbX5eYDC43bs2e/Zw2ylvbxKMsgQWC4hAlYbL4pvkxBUsVV6oHlYtTFrYD506XoM1WJLZup09TqbnkBAqxmCmaMq671DAgKax+Xa5PpUPNUCt3pHFdapsgVARZBb0/FCtFI+NdkIKORUsvAJFIUJTcqEjb28IYZ7lqDUCifqTYmwkB6SscIcc1rEJlmdHt+UyJM61Pe3sbtY2JBepuloz2dQdXX6d7SASvhU0dT7Lijt6+P/7wLx1+QO9I7j2fCaFkWoTg0sjo5EOwl0SHBor/g/OQrxaLKsNDzej7z1VfZrv/Je6x4aJfdhazbVfPDVGRjzowceti988dO2yGMlBkZ24qbYyJG8ZxWXp74KoU4lnHGrlbRXFyrGXj9eT/PUQbFTLQPEGl4TPZSBnc8Se7TxvgCHCp2CzN4RrF3UfGP7sCWp/t9Ro56CpUZJ1mBJuwWo56HkpPAmKjJybClmoOW0QqEVVUMNgofq69MwuH5FoS1fGrMi3ieDwqwW1NAKEdC0s99L8TFX53SQ23fUgyfk48UXToC2SSvDHoLSDJlAtElgZJUSni7GmXX1GETOtEm5F1SIinz6bWfLBH+mB75FAMSTZfUaoFlv+6HX22/8+i8CqPSYIRaCwHr2yHft7s//HZOAMBipAXZOYV8/tH2M9i9pqXop1D6gP6V4ikdCkaKptCCC/s5pytVJM5xpEGwOrqwoNlvleHJF7VFR1DiNLJ+FUyhQSUOMxTLXy44cft/aWynF8VTeT/BdFRcFEoqAJwGIWm1RrvIQyydayZ9aGnkOfdZL++q1wLV5k6diJa1yK6QjRRJgPU21hhKNk7Kt147Srh0eieWyRuOxS6dEfO5WmqU9YvEJ4sxU7tberLK+mIT1Z1aIQZe26Ds+AKazqhch+Ml4wEChXQSpyM8WmG0JbZrOIOmYqrwCAXfe+TL78J/8Pn1wC3bhzGH7zj3/vz35yOPA/UbrYYYoRY8fZIJPRahgKJfjqY4HcDH22r05ABYP7B5jQnmmDIbUD69YpOAeWodDv70vAnGK/TTQdrUby316fhRxfRo7Vd0tWIZiHGwFn9F4qAQii3IEL4+igqs2xnPwERRFsV3YRu5XHmWZ7VQLKJmaa1bJ85JwqCswLrnstHdK+dMdmq9hPkpa4E0faEE0Kuk5kkxVi+3OVfv1BPemxgB3k16oVlke7fBtDhR5g3BcmGogkFXxfWEYCdK3RPNioj8hw/OuEPsZe4EpbqSx8h3veKv97m/9ok2cesK+8OmP2cmLM9YxsNPq24YI0LKSGrZVJRFmukM5mkZo1Ooslj5YTGhX0wJLeGrSlwDC84Ujb6B4wyinNt4g3fHkNKGdabhJ7Tath5UtKWHlWSHet8jKi5hVuUcbKxYEz2WRUExCjIpdTlpHfY8ucISswQIJJdBvAUGGgTqUWf5WrpayjJo8VdJfpF2a4OWdWXpGSW4Z6ypgXSkE5aUHr3TKBWO2qILfkoTBGRKeFao/IMSXGCTIb3tzoGowasaQ6yHr1lYzEpRDJY97ChPB6iRaCcw3zuANd6tys9Gi6rVXvGi3vecn7mRvodPs0wDe6Rph7J9yPn57jhtRO9gi7hD1cJZeRU9NQipW+LbWkYcIFWsKhhGDL/pHMCEr7eeetEeuzC+HVa3wu6qpSq7LNZuYp6hWIAXQ5h55BCfiTTmhD+zh1gQkvLdBiDd6zJHfK9/TObWnUQZrUdqh4qFctIYKlhGMuz25QSkP5rpI60BeG62oV0VjP0KfWJt20cxQTEzUXcU2cHIdzvFFQFw7PurmZTlRnPH3Sf5kdTWazIhKIVpkPYBZwvShAU2PA5MEDIKwFHsiWO+uUZal2BXyMgnZ3YJiiLYU4KJHu+rs7W+6zdopQRTqey1FhVZyniIh1nSfFEY9GaFXQ7mLThN25/f9IHQexQPFFg+SUjTXQu8UUrk8Rxuapjfko/LkM1kHFYhRPKAYDCWqjtJ0PBVHQyqS4GbdmuAFxUpIINpHSY8RzArIoKzqx5cQpAiaUnFr41gZUJ5+tMGjRp1k4VKMhOIw1lVUkutCRMB6sAwgwpkPzpVo2DvsqMD7HnRljuDUXIFv1GS8QqmsBgZXgnLLi2C5C0jOW9Yg2OlrIovhBkVEij5BWG7m7vtcSiFO8F7SD+TO37+vxRVv2E+96dUvu41RGRgGGHcNKaiGM6PBMu8kVXNIyNZV3/JBLxe6KCuOI22M4HRwuqFv3kGHHq0nK5PLEkshp6Fnkwh7K41zIlWsg6zIH87gRUEf9FbLMTU1bWalYmLWobX69kGsOr8XXFX6UBlDO0mHXdWElpth7jV8rpmoHJynpmRk8fqVq5ViF3B34v1yXJS2IM/MT1B/4+EzFEcTDViUoxEXTjRcrW3ctJ2O5xHKDn39wzAaWuLJr3xuFHPEIsuU3aJcCuELPhQqOTjQcD/i1qRBZ1kQAwzhvchq9XlSRNtBT8Wrb38ZrWiw0SzeOE8N1TBaSAmUF4EeNfGnBkfilPoaFBv03Hnlaer5ECsiaK5+b3fqHkM8cQpUsW6Z2OWlcyWnAKUZEl51GCnZFT0kC1EpXfQQ7Rhh42C/9/DgSXkEVYPlUh1282/vt2ctNAWiXc58qzwsSbmUyiKisuSpVkX2ag1ZJ7Vy615SgJEVWrA1dJBn4l4hJLFCOWTxkiUa922hHBIaLf0hkHJLqosQsEPzinguXnOLCTlUyJlC7JH5llFjcDGOUhTr9DmXjyxGwgvW50NvujGdyxdKx+J1uUn+a6UMfct1VzM/xDOgFtKQqgw1A3IanVvEwnC/aiTRw5RFWQne+1YKIDUNKuuRFJpIqQOepTz/C9mFphFlxYplzprL7SmvQouVq00bC4uQlhH0tEZNiS1NIOBmtTyzBvNYUA5rEkrTqKfGcPK4JTXOLPpTfyJkqftxBxIYenmh0PotOlF/pwLM/hX1KEod16IuYdX3irSPFdTMAyGsp6gueds1hQ+S30TddVuIUVEXqPYr4j+5X2mCLECMuQsSqkMPzArISloVXJViVnjcQaBoPB+LoKg/tFHy8djkdlgScOT0XOhePnEhhnbgVqY3bmPrna1Dm/g8k+6UNVT2V8FRTyTVjcoqa0QHaUqEpu4iGqpakqJfo4CCAjoK51QS/F5WcQ0mxCksYpD2hNDWd/pEG58TSpzI1vB0Ae4P6iarAQGqzqM0bdayoCqrrwo9aixUuSOMtoQ8r808gBIajFNyP4d7Dnvs0kmrcR4NFQhBIyy3LM4jei0NGVtDAJWn0S4AeoYJg2pwnSS/uHWmbCApgOia8ldsbLxht+dR6hJSPFInjzRSPtl3eZTjUJCnbCyi0DedCvjQO5A0BeGGE3Fp4U8JKIztOHvhiC6EI49H+lOCidgLn02V+5P18r12Fv8qNiscphevle4hsdniAuepyxBu8fHaJEqlbpJoFmmBMruI2EZ2QhEB3IgQ1OwpdzSHUCfdmjkue1hoO2w1pPhDAoHDgstKtJV/ZRHgMrSV3GBrImP9TZwXUzxOmT9Tp23e2BYByWp/Wt/cS336quoKyMiVsj7aV9eLo8Qi7ZOkdESjpbJ88YtqT5hjz6R6PXQMwYv4leAUi9L0LKqFTf3EatmWaueB56tz44yGvvwWYpQWleey+z59LKRsVHv7oHHqRXPtjWJNXCB0GMyL3vsghx8BEkfhEoRD5AC79c+wpXTkNiPBOccWva6b9OFuWTR813amyndt2eYKoT1cdeM6hmJRDo1b5bRZmle6SXybzjPkzKaLM+rZcwvSpiJhgmQR/mwVuqqhhkdLEKZa5PKSzTaL/9eAs8rktRpO47xzHFfQv53upmZPVAt2Go3G8eIGw5N48hpPVa8in2kgYa3HWlOaZyK2LuC6hNgErbXTmty0Wte0Y4A/PJojip2RAqXZc10gQMSrWsLmVaNCaOJKc1SVlVeJnF2VoOhOSmx5w51F7xngN0fLlm/KpBYmxQ/PSTQkLT8caHZxcjqh7/OtupnAhaB6BDocFXpgVdwO274FAQVg4eyN+8NgYJ4YukcM7VYNuIxeho779VgIOpJ0M7LHJSxevJoPpqjXjibFIq6kZWreulGKw9TkTqb5PgguxbPliyxOC+56d88IC9ZjM8rxios2SWFuggx3CgttwqV067ESwOMZYoZ7FGKhXNUSpfVFxR/nBMmx1NPI+mi8k4DiQ3XapVqbWmnoQU8cEZqUlSj2SMG1NuKTtb+TunrlfUI4FgnAvYjrk/Vg0dqzXe3g2oZBTwdi8w86aOmfjztmW19yk3t2bfKrQpWeapOQFkpYynVU+OOGVOn0EKlETdBaSaRClZJj0U5RfAqMRohb+nxwkvJUYSMQj4ZRPuXUkz/AwyGUL1AzghpiMLoDd1GvVl40tmYFvgufI1jbIAtgXGeC4WjVgFLsWvn+17/ZzjPz9Hf7n/RnF776JWwQoj30uOFzZy/SeXTUXv1Db2GjR5AhSDJPW7XK+Um4tJPsYzvH0EIeixPnl+d+LpEKTGoojQWnudi4ClwV10ZgT7H51AJC1ybFQoUau9EAhR7MqQ2zBN0lJHGYznSqJYV4L3AjOkilHtXwlrAaV2Cv1YeGILcm3KVqc2w8xvVxC9oQS1xf36tfVmwRclLvGBo9ze6VM/h81YzFbakM4LucaIRS7LQ2/HDdVl8AogQdhjwm8IVeUBTIiKxMiNFjlGKGE76KUYHaibe7cWt1PIJFsCBddIj2wgF6wIcBUF1nPAcywoJGlRy2N9gzjG92AjwaT52wzXQw/fh/+4C1X3eL1RLU24itn/rEX/vuYzu277a3vekd9qu//ht2G08v1WZZQ/S679y7w46fPW6/9tu/Yec1WcFzOlSrWmLh1ACTQvnU/61YmuS3jmvLQOmkuRa2seT+tOFiGKR25KvnJqprmNfUD6iam3I13Zh00Xez4X3t9inFVGxyUK2+Qbl9Jb+sbZMmQ8SMiMRl7bK0w+W1v1L7rdcVNVskQUnacn0+b+sWpdxJuEjb14S99rQVToFKphew1d6MFgUKKkxv66qcFJUgPCNXshiSvnjn/JCJiaYSRxYx9342XA+C70bjupg21OO5lefM0pCYxu20wSb0cvM7du6wTXQjDdP69QjjMRfHztltt73c3vHu90D0MkBw8Bl76CtftNGrroGh77AvfP5uygSd9lo2vG9lyPlG9hvKsfB/8rG/sK89/ABPxKbphSRTrQM1uE5ZRDuJUzNrsqB9IJQYY0XOpgssISRoUw1pAAATI0lEQVTVl7w9gf98WwbiqDbuD8Pn8lGKpwyKa55KJCsxqh63KiJAaFOxSvvueqKr4QLlVapMSJd99is80U573XqPX+3O4aK+5IuL29EerI5k1I5MQ6Lmn/RASXXoDDGgrE0yLl44p5DvT7PWJovxJlbOvEd1LCmjCn2+C5nnYAENOoPgsD1A97gnQ8dol4BUHeYi67WVAkJflQvlwhuxpD1bdvC42OtpIbtgm9ha9eW3326/+f7328z4uO+UspV+9R08y6O7p8nu/8pnGUCgntUzaDffcQebW223fp7ao59vfOOb9rf/+jk7eO44lsS9Rwy3kmIhTC1+A+TsEi5wGp1MalNkZ94Du+FxFaUUAxE2TVFlW4SryF+5uLB7mW5dtJb6EcX0aFNktZRp5ksWI8+j7Xw0ma8yidCeEvg8sVU9j6pPaQse9dEnUnuGvfdcZ9ezBbUnrKh/tXOpg9UrpdpjgcmI/r4B4DJPicFVaLh5lvr+qgp6GnvxDa8wa7Su0RPQMIEoEfl4KLg4ToADnYPpuyaGgpqE1g7bsKmNLTs1N6xnS5FYqgh489599rbXvtFeesttvteExjaFlN721h+0d7/rXXb0xFH7iXf9tN149R7bx+b0+66/zsZO87yobvaYHdrsHmGevOX7Bw7aF7/6Vd9oZA6E9vRzT5IIq9AnfKeuInIf/lScU5VWdSInk7XYGm/VkZyBVyoRmHLdpz9JISqheFAQelW6wZ8pFC+eyvSNHHHLPrUY0W6+bYRYHVUeEGxODzN2ZeEXpRD7ngNpJuquHiUeKnEVI6zdt/CRqtFEsFrDYkrelLsoeRtg27Xh4REaFqe9yFdPcPUHp6AZAiSLLK42btKOLaq7KB9Qk+Q8DxXxEkSUQzkh62WDsCFWF7UpxTPlJ9t4TlRfA4pBi/IC2flvvf//tl1bt7FR1Tk7+OxBHrPQbZM01d987fVY1K/aow89ZD/2jh+2O+56pe2+/iamRfp8UfXz9NPH7b6HHrWnDx9lO4FLdjs7kd1x18uYfD9FF9MkD6Y8Yw+xG/QFCpJ54qFilB6WInLWBQJgkeWot0MbnGh/JGdseDuecdbwRN57NUK8clzr9xpqc9qJRpScFFKbOmrDZG9bQIFlEP4IWNFerGFClWrtUwuSFHBTEp0Fqicab9wbslEnrwL1Iw3SgLSEJ0iuCxXNoilyPVpI/lqPAU/BOuuhJTt4VMMUaFEbMemRCjUQuHkC/xCzT4o12i1FpQgRrtIqbbXmTfX4bY1r6uYYqOPxQNNW21hng7SEbWaH/ZWFFTvPHkM//iNvsK0jw3b00DH74pf+3V79hjfY0OgAuci8nT923ItuN910g7UOwmRw3CMnz9lTB47av/KsjOdOX2R3L8Zp2IDk9huvtXe99c0eN7Pcz1b2Y5pm4f+/z33GPvWlL/lDmP2xRCnt/ac9BUXaqjKsKjfCUHxxvxceuul7GHJuuTox8cop1dmkljS5vlXvTBLajcr2Ii5D5uKb5KtCIWuUi5OwxECodiZCVySDan4rpBk59VB2vvy2otyLHtQRRmlCV6iXPLAwR23SIHrL1AMdJuODlvWzmH1d7PSF65NVad9WJy65QD1xug831kExcJi997TvzzzcnO/YxfOaBN472GbHhYsCzNGHvUQnTgvnHxwc9UdQNJFknjl3zl7M1jtve/Mb7Qi7Rp44edJ2s9nvzl0ACshb7ZSsnyWy+nu/+YDtP3za/v3B77GL5Jh1M+vUwV5/ezb32htf90p7yU3XWm+zHufK7l7s8P+t++6z59iB8/6nn7bTlFDS3Kv6JxqA2ppG9DIK7lkoTphWT/BRvFA9VP17TqSqkYfz55j1kgzl0sO8b0DDoR9fJR3VxoQCQwLpo7UKAWoh8D13QydtKLrKkvmYph3VEy83evsv/ULxMHOys9roSYBCtL0k73yW6lHh+YR1IBdZQb2GqfGzkp22fWaShTxkIWweglap6V8FNpWgPdVVAJYJ4zY02aGA0Msm7SJccySPQjZ65MM8gpL2jLMZ7iR/7uoZsh3AYJWl1WLVz+aLC1RbO4DtIzyn6iff+U6fTj9w8IT921fvtZNnxuHpVmxMG/SShOxi/9a9uMtr92z2/Gkr5+snuR0DIX79vm/aUyeO21PHjlmeeKqt72QlORaujliqeu4cHmORX5XL63hfm1DpdWQV9jxXkY9F1SOVFIdkWWrLVjwuz4pJ4eMNKaMyvIQXUVZykZpfdtJWpRSV8bUdD5qg+KTnL2Z82gNBveMjHyo+89yz1HoYIgNlKdmqwaWp13wZlJLm1zlbmbfqK/wKPMhsa1kQh+qesMImk8NodJ8sJBotlY/Wc7JwJQiwk3kkPSs+iYZpiwNtGr9r+za7hrymE5DSjNs8NH4acHDKEhPzdvHhJxhEnrBnmOF95Z13Ykm77Qm0fx/P6i0WW+x/ffZLdggLG9m+wx8b1Ak0383Wctrs6pYbr4fZYH8KNP44A3AHjx2x7k399hAD2fc/8gjUErkRs7JF0FqNP1ZdsUVarvjDYqL9AhL1cnk+4qk8SPkSs1NCaViEWHjvHhKpLBZG4CkCR2ErCG20EhpAwxZ6oTVZx4k7mJQUK07JIeYBMHrKTvgTK9MTG2StKne866/+d1Pn0ltVFYbhfRRQSqgUELRAioCXkGjiQBM1SjT+Akc69zc4d6JTMVEnKobEgZd4TSAkxsQLClijQVCgtNQe0BQQkAqUant8nvfbBzgJgRz22Xutvdb6ru/3fq8SQiLkjmyVqcR43wCxMBX9OZSt2HDTCjLoi5TRrZLJywX8m91rhFzq679tGYSSdEJmO2+D+dkWrnYVWEHN0T2AUoZ4mdOA/Z3QZnb7fRD33iFFDvdfiYgctLYJX+MyR3/Pl181X3/7dfPuzrebv2hEuW3b07TUQzeNbGwOn5xq9uwdpQXe+uYpjIM7qeqwLawY9Un6dqziOW4Eu6/F8eTfn3+xuzlMi/P/RGjhSM8v4MB7WgHhiyQakE9JtJAgF0Es+Gvh0yDepvWnaG/j/5Ux0FiITdGemoTMrpN6BeATcpAKXjtnFyqZAl0YLck28+td0t9E0z96CV2pngr+sXJ5nedfe60nm4pe80VEmNFzZbQ/1GfKd4isYaooVHgy/F8k/K/8VTRYeS7IfRYmlBVwzy0O1TQQZI60fZ2kbbsV8TLAn4282HtZoGFKPa2cF/mznBreZWySZU6egQ5Isst7sl/9FCWcvx0+2Ox4c0fz2cefh6Lm4cefaJ559rlm25OPpx/G2fNnmj/gFroCZvvEiS6hLzrb0I1GEaQDep7N9zsFbb8eP5oKDQuXL89SsgkW0NSGEYVkacRSqBM4WXPJWsusxpj0DYU/K1ZEtzLmJYIt+X+5isxspnBP7FHrfwRHwkJYAJckQWAB/U8xC8i0prFiIlGodOh5RBa3wKCoIAPHjN/K/c6LH37UU+7L3XAaso1TTMraUZNxp4noiiMwA2kl4DpE1UoIDE2Je1+rDcx+znFq1rGQd9F9+hYms546W9mIf4f5ZAlIH3nHO4jJTRgUGyCekpdOz/0Sk5Z1WcdPPldf2Cw46yULKHBPJou2mL9PES56D2tv/Nivzd2bNjcP0/rhDJRuPx78GQobKAw47asAeP5Cyc6fOL9DQNEsPuhKuojn7WabtTkkYtfcT3DppBmSoDHjKg7LNL6wuBSm6cPQfVR2SwoCJAbuoKstlbFu147bcS/Uw4q/fqBVYyKhIT0zP5roLlJhH4sKopBIFufNqUKELKhZLDhgoVyghTb7K2AIucfjCCF9M9XtHRk7ystHnOFcTXW7dJYeyU0vsus1qdMdxv5Q/PuxRx7FpMbkZrHc0VqCcjzcjv7x46IttcBa5ZRsrw4Hm5Gsrep4qWZ/a/moC66havntKU7QB599SpbJyffSHXQN9z185Eiq2401Hjiwv9m9Zxco2Q0h85i3uI5nJlsKW1kPIIe4iD8poFsJOYj8R7cy9n84XTPIfOkEDDDHTRI4EhYysR1sGI0FTrihIlPv1s9egspAH0pzXah0W2tQSCx+f616w+CrtizzDkYkOao252PS1HighgVznxf3zv3/Ffoc872SsQKEDDyb7yoYGScXG2Bey++nyanePLtOmhtjeUOEkM4QxhjDIpLJX4pPZel6k3jWN7EL5ISQ49uBJPzEAC9IwmTZjRENRIqJsjSrVB5reBiht/33DWJAgL1gxXE49MbGjjVjlHJOA8ZczonYgPjS8vmGlg57R/fRa2qYqMQ50hNkUHGyh6g+HMHxNhpyEWoeT8QWxKom++QpaNaQAnb/PIlOLJIpGVWwzBKvK0CMpTvRNQJXeCEDmO7o8uhdfTutXUVbEE6mexRprq+pfF+mQWuuTWCnLSCIbjLq4PdsCvnQa1GL4aU+Pl9Xp/pHqrccg0nN1DtLRGnwGcmi/zaHWO/8MtmlxAcTU4w0Fy1HH5ny/oedqEFgiln/wQMsXHgao0HYr8HJ88b9EDUmvbSANtL/STHqC7aqXErr1Ygl+1UMouxFxE6yKHY5E0B5DOU+PnGi+Yt7XkD3aRmt4Hma82tBzer42VtQg2yIAjrHeJmBn4HmYJCdf//WrUiASUzubtoaDRA4NuUwY2ySZy+Vw9yFtFmZkXsx52ZarYESPi1ECwvOrK0V6M7pipQCzNb8nDpTBJRopb74SqSc4yCRYxvoiWGg9Vadggqn6GeRuD/Gs4AY1Wk2aFEgl0LZBnqg2AsQ09OD2FMUxqcSVOOtyFWxOTvfj0/0ZvBh7uTEDNrilcWSblSaUWNUVhKmJbgkvvg3Eye7TRd+7xP8LV3AIiazmuiDlYiJLPOg1TihmurqCSsJDyFad37yfkg9ptEtNoa0sj5evnFcRQoDdr8NsNONOHvyPKGDnHCx3IoeIwNS3nj1Uvya2+GHmCEhp3Fj36hlbCxlvbDiGTaKG6vyZcYsS5z6YjQIwvMaUUWIh60svMK2RhoT6p3A2ph/+UE3BJRN4STGp4griywnpRXj/bYS9a1JVH+uUeFJK1+0WAM8dZ5INk9qtEQWS6xocQJpjhbEqs+l29R5YfsrvdWEgR6Ca0ixoT9lJzXZVv6Aq1XCqTSW5LsJemKI7fPEzSJG1kHaO0R135A9eAl0HoQF5WcU/BrCQpJJfbd/X3NgdJRTeK7Zf+jHECIKYqzJMGh3uYvD76UcsBJxnp1sHw/B/W4U9UMSk+oM/Rt2q2auzMr+5uw5GrRwrQnOWaInQpuFkxnGES+nLhA2XcHUwtyVGONlB++QEEDVzPJS54i1pZujUZlg+ep3ifwZuTDkY+rGgVcSrURhLO7CR1aGwAuUQ9epx+taj1AFwYtXPoc1HyMQispaKMdei+jidV5+a0dP03uYl56e7vARDZNCOI84E5QhU1cguZyCC5y8EZoUr4JqzQda12Q0Q9HwEx2qX359e/PtD/vC4WPKRL0nfFc8YGJnDFTcWyLNPFzK6qSlGbQ6zQFrMKR60YVJ+sDMViUZy6EolJPvIHhEjAgxeAL+raVI6CMvALfbslNfHveyfYKgx+TQkqhEL8ewKLibyT1t+1Dl+ETjnbHiZJ3RiFCsFcLX9EufPdmBmHeKAR54WIEqU2Hoc3k3gVUnhaKBxR9PY1aornXewfx5yvk/46E3ebKxTrUMjZt2XnpjR089shZGSkMhniB3shbJGsSJpYxaZtJI25jkNDoj/K5Yfgd+GG2OThxvTkKC+BUK/xC+irzlNwkDFlZm5jdHXcy1/abkq2sJGNudrfhwcmmBpDetqcz14guM2jsLKUFvNrKfZo8sR1wDWy1YLlOcS5rY4v5MeZvzkc3Le3fYSRrAs3APSRS1GHMuqYmMrwqlRcQqajvWVRnJzhtW5/QBCCWYUx7qguiEajsG+6DVKLizTqYF0xoK8vXJ9pyyUTezhkkyEt6nNmo2nGOMPyVPL+4A+8xSGzmdFvD3dAuSUHzlnXfZ1PPNWfgZtmyiyzMi6yw5H8WPbXjs0qlIOki1uouyi364VlBYRXiU/hjTsvvrZTMaF0O/q8eDKptboqCGV/WufdbmiAevaLPDacPQ/iYdcVgzRV6Kv0wJeAqwzCwwE9vg7nQ3hl/QU9eeWFMxRvRdBDn7rpIZTrUH87XwWXqcGo+/6RNN1b2CXW9N8ECzPVEimqKC3HTV5cdNoxOsxjMyDgImC2gE3fR5wkjGQ/myH1lPRtskaERdzUtR7kWWgYqcNfQm0b1yNBUkJi3lvPWrtQ8+QCpEvPPVcLSG+AlemXSqRvSN4FOp+MfBJswY99MJjNhmcUTUOmCPfPAtJXdTwuP4W+l+LatbP6sAspPxPtmgVQUY3WEyMd8WE5eL1YdcLwnXDMFTd7EYdGuePIWKydZ8ToFYm1owfHSNoNCKQUEnvNy5vK2CYUtiaO+ocB+1WDpXyDidG2sOAExBvQs/VdUrpi9EF9d9COVynyrtKYOvZhARHnO9sOux7IItUUKoCnJRro1INQ+GqLQDgjoSOZNUvCf9fyN+tiKZscBeAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC) 我在西班牙的阿爾赫西拉斯(Algeciras)港登陸,快步走到大路口,見走來一位和藹的老者,便上前向他問路。他不懂英語,仍熱心拿著我出示的旅館地址詢問他人,在搞定後帶我前往。老者陪我步行約莫十來分鍾,一直送我到旅館門口。我在旅館稍事休整,立即出外找到一外幣兌換處,換得足夠的歐元,即直奔公車站,乘車前往直布羅陀。那公車逢站必停,開到達直布羅陀站,已過三點。下了車步行不遠,即到西班牙與英國的交界處。在英國入境處,經過了比休達那邊較為嚴格的檢查,我始進入這處英國的海外飛地。 直布羅陀(Gibraltar)這個英文名源於該山的阿拉伯名Jabel-al-Tarig,義為托裏格之山。托裏格是柏柏爾人將領,據傳他當年帶領柏柏爾大軍渡海登陸伊比利亞半島,曾在此巨岩下焚毀戰艦,奮勇率軍北上,橫掃安達露西亞。幾百年之後,柏柏爾人退出了安達露西亞,此處始歸西班牙所有。十八世紀初,西班牙與英國海戰失利,雙方簽訂《烏得勒支和約》,英國從此軍事占領直布羅陀至今。其後西班牙雖多次出兵圍攻這塊彈丸之地,卻始終未能得手。真所謂一物降一物,強中更有強中手。西班牙在海峽南岸占了摩洛哥的領土,英國則在北岸占了西班牙如此關鍵的戰略要地。條約的約束力其實並非白紙上所寫的黑字,而是幾番較量後所顯示的各自實力。摩洛哥若有軍力驅逐西班牙,休達不可能至今猶被西班牙霸占。同理,西班牙軍力不敵英國,故隻得在自己的國土上屈辱至今。中國的釣魚島以及黑龍江北大片失地之所以拿不回來,仍屬此類實力不足,徒喚奈何的問題。 入境英國領土後,花2歐元乘大巴至市中心,步行主街,街景和氛圍則比西班牙那邊有所升級,顯得更加亮麗。我終於可隨便用英語問路,但物價比那邊貴了很多。我看到路邊有信息中心,便入內索得地圖,詢問了登山路徑。待我乘路邊公車到達山下,其時已將近四點。若步行登山,等下山後再乘坐回程公車,恐在七八點以後,且有體力不支之虞。環視公車站周圍,見有其他準備登山的旅客,我便上前與他們結伴,湊夠人數,招來一輛中巴遊覽車,每人付司機與導遊20歐元,一起乘車登山。 環山公路陡峭狹窄,有些路段僅可容一車經過。山路上極少行人,可以明顯看出,若要步行上山,不隻步履艱難,走在時有汽車上下的山路上也比較危險。這塊完整的巨岩——當地人隻稱它the Rock——高達1,396英尺,它的背部峭然聳立,向南高臨海峽,向西北則是平緩傾斜下去的山脊,可以清晰看到其下的居住區。特別引人注目的是機場的十字型跑道。那機場不同於通常的封閉型專用機場,在平曠土地十分有限的直布羅陀,機場的跑道與繁忙的公路垂直相交。沒有飛機起飛時,汽車與行人均可照常穿越那條跑道,隻有在飛機起飛時,公路才會暫時封閉。這塊英屬半島在陸地上完全處於西班牙包圍之中,英國人沒有陸地上的出口,隻能從海上或空中來去出入。盡管如此逼仄,三百多年來,英國政府始終堅守此軍事要塞,硬是楔子般楔進了西班牙的領土。 巨岩上唯一的特產是土生土長的獼猴,它們成群結隊,受到保護,成為旅遊招徠重點渲染的看點。這些顯得有些肮髒的猴子追隨遊客,乞討食物,一見汽車停下來,便跳上車頂,邊吃邊丟,弄得地麵上一片狼藉。旁觀那場麵,不勝大煞風景之感。 二 路經塞維利亞 我十三年前曾漫遊西班牙,本無重遊計劃。這次渡海取道西班牙,一是為順路登直布羅陀,二是要前往葡萄牙的首都裏斯本,從那裏飛回紐約。可惜從阿爾赫西拉斯到裏斯本,並無直達火車可供乘坐,我隻好於次日乘長途汽車前往塞維利亞,再從那裏設法中轉。這段旅程行車三個多小時,汽車向西北方疾馳,路兩旁的植被漸綠漸密,但整個的景觀仍顯得比較荒涼幹旱,土地貧瘠。農戶是七零八散的,叢薄和亂石多於農田,時見有牛羊在坡地上吃草。風力發電的設施一座座高矗田野,但因無風,葉片均處於靜止狀態。遙想當年,西班牙和葡萄牙人率先航海遠去,一批批殖民南北美洲,應該是安達露西亞固有的生態狀況所迫,不得不鋌而走險,去海外自謀生路吧。 汽車於中午到達塞維利亞,我乘出租車到達預定的旅館。入住時被告知旅館內當晚有弗洛明哥演出,順便花15歐元訂購了座位。這旅館位於小巷深處,一出門又是像在摩洛哥那樣,曲裏拐彎,不斷碰到令人迷途的岔道。出巷口不遠,就瞥見聖母大教堂那熟悉的塔樓巍然聳立右側。教堂外擠滿遊客,售票處排起長龍,一眼望去,看不見隊尾。我十三年前已入內觀光過這座歐洲第三大的主教座大教堂,曾登上塔樓頂,一覽一片紅瓦屋頂鋪向天際的市景。麵對眼前這人頭躦動的陣勢,就不想再次入內湊熱鬧了。 午後的時間很有限,我先去參觀附近的塞維利亞王宮。站在石塊砌成的高牆下,仰視牆壁和箭垛上歲月留下的痕跡,猶殘存幾許古堡滄桑的森嚴。高大的宮門開在一段紅色城牆下,門楣上鑲有巨型獅子的陶瓷貼麵,號稱獅子門。走進獅子門,匆匆穿過一座連一座宮殿,從拱券到廊柱,從牆壁到天花板,或灰墁粉飾,或鎏金木雕,或遍布色彩豔麗的陶瓷貼麵,大都是阿拉伯風格的圖案,繁複細密,金碧輝煌,行步間四處張望,那過於富麗堂皇的裝飾看得我目眩神迷,反而失去駐足其前,仔細觀賞的興味。直到我走出佩德羅一世宮和大使庭等殿堂,步入少女庭院(The Courtyard of the Maidens),站在那回廊圍繞的長方形倒影池旁,稍作回神,然後向兩邊下沉式花園漫步走去,目睹冬日裏依然蒼翠的園林,頭腦才清爽起來。那庭院的地麵完全用大理石鋪成,中央有一噴泉,據說美國電影《天國》即在此取景。特權之門(Portal of the Privilege)是王宮內最大的花園。我走進園門,穿過幽徑,有一灰墁裝飾的長廊造型奇特,登上二樓,站在拱券下,縱目觀賞棕櫚扶疏的園景。 步出王宮,走到一條大道的十字路口。過馬路向東北方向前行,不多時即到達瑪利亞•路易莎公園。那公園很大,我已走得有點步履沉重,沒有更多的精力瀏覽園景,便徑直向我要尋找的西班牙廣場走去。此廣場與公園均為1929年在塞維利亞舉辦的伊比利亞-美洲博覽會而修建,是一座氣勢宏偉,融合了巴洛克複興、文藝複興和摩爾複興樣式,堪稱該城地標的典範建築。那土紅色的建築呈半圓形,南北兩翼末端均矗立一高聳的塔樓。清淺的護城河回環廣場,把半圓形的樓閣回廊與半圓形的廣場分隔在河水兩岸。從遠處望去,整個的景觀華貴典雅,開闊宏放。我走過拱橋,進入廣場,隻見場內遊人紮堆,都在圍觀演練鬥牛動作的集會。演練者有成人,也有少年,他們每人都手持鬥牛士所持的那塊紅布。音響設備放出高昂的鬥牛士進行曲,伴隨音樂的節奏,演練者在教練指導下演練鬥牛的步伐。我穿越廣場,再次過橋,拾級而上,走上中心樓的回廊,站在露台上俯視廣場,拍照後離去。 回到旅館,立即趕到樓下一處迷你演出場地,觀看剛開場的弗洛明哥演出。比起我十三年前在該城某劇場看過的那場演出,這裏的規模要小多了。一男子彈吉他,一矮胖女士坐其身旁,黑衣裙,披長紗巾,擊掌呼叫助興,間或拉長調子,唱一兩句。一男一女跳舞,總共四人。女舞者比較專業,其插著梳子的發髻、麵相、身材及服裝,尤其是麵部表情與體態,均令我想起前此看過的舞蹈。但男舞者的舞姿似乎不倫不類,特別是身著紅色西裝和牛仔褲,腳蹬紅皮鞋,其輕佻俏皮的舞姿頗似美國的現代舞,有失吉普賽悲歌蒼涼的風味。從頭至尾,都是跳舞,歌曲唱得實在太少,看得並不過癮。十三年後,此刻重臨弗洛明哥現場,不勝民間藝人古風褪色之感。 三 從法魯到裏斯本 從塞維利亞仍無直達裏斯本的快車,我隻好乘汽車前往葡萄牙最南端的港口城市法魯(Faro),再從那裏乘直達裏斯本的火車。這段車程約三小時,路旁的田野仍顯得比較貧瘠荒涼。引人注目的是,到處長著一種樹冠如蓋,針葉墨綠的鬆樹,其褐色樹皮中間有淡紅,呈鱗甲狀,鬱鬱蒼蒼,點綴路旁。當寫有“Faro”的路標出現時,汽車已進入葡萄牙境內。看不出任何邊界線的標誌,自然無需經過邊檢。這就是目前歐洲申根國家邊界間呈現的大一統現象。 我在網上預訂的旅館位置真好,出汽車站步行不到五分鍾就看見旅館大門。一如網上的描述,整座大樓麵對海濱。臨窗望去,小小的海灣內停滿了小型遊艇。我放下行李,立即出外熟悉周圍的環境。先去比汽車站稍遠了幾百米的火車站,查找列車時刻表,選了次日三點多直達裏斯本的火車。 離開法魯前,我在該城參加了兩次出遊活動。先是上午10點乘坐環城觀光的小列車慢騰騰上路,瀏覽沿途街景。隻有一處建於十三世紀的大教堂據稱是該城最重要的古跡,車開到那裏稍作停留,讓遊客入內轉了一圈。 我緊接著又去港口乘快艇,參加了一次海上荒島觀鳥行。船上另有五位年輕遊客,全來自美國。三位女郎來自肯塔基,另外兩位同行男女來自佛羅裏達。其中的女士是位華裔,她出身客家,隻會說我聽不懂的客家話,互相僅可用英語溝通。快艇在近海的荒島間穿行,說是會看到這樣那樣的海鳥,其實並沒看到多少。快艇破浪前行,海風吹得人頭皮發冷。偶然會激起浪花,濺入船艙,搖晃得滿船人東倒西歪。所上的荒島也沒什麽特別的景致,我們站在岩石上上向無邊的大西洋眺望一陣,拍了些照片就返航了。我上岸後直奔火車站,乘三點多快車,將近六點時到達裏斯本。走出車站,天色已晚,我立即乘出租車到達預定的旅館。 次日一早,我在問訊處索取地圖,打聽了去老城的路線,乘地鐵藍線在拜薩區(Baixa)下車。踏上老城的街道,這才看出裏斯本是個山城。街道都是直上直下,行步間頗感吃力,那情形讓我想起在重慶街道上吃力的跋涉。這裏在十八世紀有過大地震,城裏的建築幾乎整個摧毀。老城的房屋都是劫後重建,街景很單調,沒看到什麽氣派的建築。我邊走邊看地圖,隨時勘查定位我所在的處所,逐漸摸清方向,遂在一處陡峭的街道上搭乘開過來的老式有軌電車。經一番詢問,得到乘客指點,我在靠近古堡的一個車站下了車。 仍然是沿著上坡路轉來轉去,看著路標,終於到達聖若熱城堡(Castelo de S. Jorge)。古堡為摩爾人占領期間修築的防守據點。1147年10月,葡萄牙王阿方索一世在十字軍幫助下攻陷此城堡,收複了裏斯本,遂在摩爾人原有的基礎上改造和擴建,開啟了此城堡的黃金時代。城堡在1755年大地震中受到嚴重破壞,幾化為廢墟。直到近代,經一番修複,才作為該城的重要古跡向遊客開放。
古堡內並無可看的展品,沿階梯登上古堡最高處,可俯瞰山下城市全景,據說是觀賞夕陽殘照最佳的處所。我還有更多的地方要去,無意在此久留,城牆上轉一圈,拍拍照就快步下去了。走向出口途中,看見保育員帶進一群幼兒園小孩來此玩耍,男孩均武士裝束,戴著頭盔,手持塑料泡沫做的短劍和盾牌,在一塔樓蔭庇的角落玩打鬥。 走出古堡,進入被稱為中世紀保存下來的摩爾人居住區。小巷窄道,房屋分布在陡峭的山坡上。我隨遊人繞來轉去,沿碎石塊鋪就的路麵一圈圈走下來,踏入一地麵平曠的市場。那裏到處擺著售貨攤位,擠滿了遊客。行步間看到有輛黃色的遊覽車停在路邊,有導遊在一旁兜售車票。我上前一問,得知是乘車遊覽全城景點,行程約兩小時。我買了票,選了有漢語的audio解說,戴上耳機,在頂層座位上就坐。這兩小時的兜風遊不隻大飽眼福,更對照所經處聽到的解說詞,大體上了解到城內重要景點的分布。次日該去何處,應怎麽走,我邊聽邊看,在地圖上作出標誌,心中已有了比較確切的規劃。 次日上午出旅館,首先步行去參觀附近的卡羅斯特•古本江(Calouste Gulbenkian)博物館。出行之前,我在網上讀了這位阿爾明尼亞裔富商和慈善家的生平資料,得知他自從在倫敦國王學院獲取學位後,即奔走於中東與歐洲之間,在石油勘探開發和經營銷售上建樹甚多。他是個談判爭利方麵決不讓步的能手,綽號百分之五。通過遊說談判,投資控股,縱橫排闔幾十十年,終成歐洲巨富。經商之餘,他還精於收購藝術品,擁有豐富的收藏。古本江在英法兩國均有房產,不知何故,晚年卻長年住在裏斯本一家旅館房間裏,最終在那裏去世。出於感謝和信任葡萄牙這個國家,他臨終前立下遺囑,在裏斯本成立古本江基金會,將他的部分遺產作為啟動資金,用於資助慈善、教育、藝術和科學項目,而他終其一生收藏的藝術珍品則全部貯存展出在我眼前這座現代派風格的混凝土建築中。三層的博物館大樓掩映在古本江公園的園林中,園中草坪開闊,林木蔭庇下曲徑通幽,小橋流 水曲折回環,各種水鳥悠閑自得,棲息在池塘周邊。稍遠處,更有一半圓形的露天劇場可供演出。 步入館中,首先看到的展品為古希臘羅馬藝術,以及古代近東和尼羅河穀的藝術,其中有古埃及、美索不達米亞和亞美尼亞的藝術品,以及伊斯蘭時期的波斯藝術品。更為豐富的展品則是歐洲藝術,其中有倫勃朗和魯本斯這類大師的傑作,以及透納等英國畫家的作品。由法國勒內·拉立克 (Rene Lalique) 設計的一套珠寶和玻璃製品尤為精湛璀璨。我在巴黎和倫敦旅遊,過眼的大師名作已經很多,比較而言,這裏的展品並無多麽突出的特色。直至走到展室末端,我瞥見屏幕上正在映現一部詩集的插圖畫冊,頗感精彩吸睛,這才駐足多時,仔細讀了所附的英文解說。那詩集名曰《比莉蒂斯之歌》(The Song of Bilitis),作者為法國作家皮埃爾•路易(Pierre Louÿs)。書中插圖的線條和色彩綺靡柔媚,人物圖像詼諧性感,筆法流暢灑脫,極富於裝飾性,每一幅都表現了女同性戀者之間某種銷魂的情色。回到旅館,我上英文穀歌一查閱,方才得知其中詳情。原來比莉蒂斯這個古希臘的樂斯賓(lesbian)詩人,純屬皮埃爾虛構的人物,而所謂塞浦路斯古墓中出土的比莉蒂斯其人其作及其本事,全出於皮埃爾這位男性作者的杜撰。 走出古本江公園,我乘地鐵藍線,再轉綠線,在終點站下車。接著又換乘電車,下車後詢問路人,幾經周折,爬坡上山,不知走了多少冤枉路,才找到了遊人稀少的安提加國家藝術博物館(Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga)。該館收藏繪畫、雕塑、金銀器皿,以及來自歐洲、非洲和遠東的裝飾藝術,總計超過4萬件,其中有些藏品據稱在葡萄牙已列為國寶。我對館內展出的金銀陶瓷器皿及豪華小擺設並無興趣,對大量的宗教繪畫和人物肖像也都走馬看花而過。我專程來此處,要看的展品乃是博斯(H. Bosch)的三聯畫《聖安東的誘惑》。三十多年前,我曾與老友黨晟翻譯貢布裏希的名作The Story of Art,該書第十七章譯文即出自我手。其中插圖所選的博斯三聯畫和有關其畫作的論述,我印象至深,多年前在馬德裏的普拉多博物館和洛杉磯的蓋特中心即看過博斯的其它繪畫精品。出現在我眼前的這幅三聯畫繪於相連的三塊木板上,左邊的聖安東被攙扶著過橋,右邊的聖安東在凝視一個半遮掩的裸女,中間的聖安東跪在台階下,戟手指向龕內的基督受難像。從地麵到天空,畫滿了奇形怪狀的人物、妖魔和動物。整個構圖怪誕詭譎,匪夷所思,一種災異妖變的啟示錄末日景象恍如噩夢侵入現實,荒謬而恐怖,吸引得不少觀眾駐足畫前,良久注目,以致我很難找到空隙拍攝這被圍觀的古畫。 出博物館,走了很長一段下坡路,才走到河濱線路的電車、汽車站,乘車到達貝倫區(Belem)。首先去看熱羅尼莫斯修道院,院門外遊客眾多,購票後需排隊等候,逐個入內。走進教堂,仰視那高大的拱頂,令人肅然而生敬畏之情。入口內停放兩個巨大的石棺槨,其中一個即我們小時候就在課本上得知的航海家達•伽馬(Vasco da Gama)之靈柩。而此修道院之修建,也是為紀念達•伽馬繞過好望角,通航印度而榮耀歸來的功勞。另一石棺槨則是葡萄牙詩人卡蒙斯(Luís Vaz de Camões,舊譯賈梅士)的靈柩。我對葡萄牙文學孤陋寡聞,直至此時此刻,才初睹此陌生詩人的姓名。回旅館上網查閱,大略得知他一生的坎坷經曆。詩人曾服役海軍,參加過葡萄牙遠征東南亞的戰事,途中草創史詩《盧濟塔尼亞人之歌》,曆盡艱險,九死一生,攜帶手稿回到裏斯本。在這部長篇史詩中,詩人歌頌了達•伽馬及其艦隊開拓海疆的曆險事跡,穿插著希臘神話,為葡萄牙人的航海大發現樹碑立傳。詩人窮愁潦倒而死,死後始聲譽與日俱增,被奉為葡萄牙的國魂,其詩作久已列為文學經典。將他們兩人的靈柩一左一右,陳列教堂內,真可謂航海功業與文字不朽互相輝映,珠聯璧合。教堂的中央穹頂由石柱四角撐起,仰之彌高。絢麗的彩色玻璃窗高豎兩側牆體,壁龕上更繪有聖經故事的油畫。走出教堂,走進外左側寬敞的回廊,那花式窗格做功十分精細,可觀賞回廊中所描繪的不同主題。1775年的大地震幾乎毀了裏斯本全城,獨有這座堅固的修道院挺過了那場浩劫,巋然幸存。是人功抑或神助,無從臆測,二百多年後身臨其境,不能不讚歎此創造了奇跡的工程。 出修道院西行不遠,即著名的海事博物館,又稱海軍博物館。這座博物館的興建,據說葡萄牙國王路易斯一世(King Luis I, 1838-1889) 與有功焉。這位國王富有科學知識修養,尤其熱衷海洋學研究,更富有航海經驗。他在位期間,專注收集與保護有關葡萄牙海事曆史的物品。基於他豐富的收藏,1963年在修道院西翼成立了這座海事博物館。 走進博物館大門,首先看到的是航海王子恩裏克(Dom Henrique)——即英語慣稱的亨利王子——的塑像。恩裏克是若望一世的第三子,如前所述,他曾隨其父攻占休達,戰功卓著,被父王冊封為騎士。從休達班師回朝後,王子籌款建立航海學校,網羅有關人才教授天文、數學、地理知識,一直銳意發展葡萄牙的航海事業。他親自參與海船的建造與改進,盛行於十五世紀的卡拉維爾三桅帆輕快船(caravel),按展出的文字解說,就是在他的關注下首先由葡萄牙人開發,用於遠洋航海的。但據詹姆斯•洛溫《老師的謊言》一書所說,這種快艇最早出自古代埃及人和腓尼基人之手,亨利王子充其量有所改進而已。展廳內的展品展出了葡萄牙人自十五世紀以降,航海發現和殖民開拓的業績史。從展出的人物群像可以看出,參與探險拓疆的人物從國王、王後到群臣,從航海家到普通海員,從商人到神父,可以說是朝廷、教會和商會三方麵的合作,促成了大發現的業績。琳琅滿目的展品有各種船舶模型,海軍的武器裝備和服裝,古老的導航儀器和地圖,呈現異域風光的繪畫等等。從這些展品可以看出,像葡萄牙這樣僅十萬平方公裏的小國之所以走在航海大發現的最前列,顯然在很大的程度上得益於葡萄牙人在那時候就已掌握的航海知識及其相關的硬件和技術。 出博物館,在路邊買得飲料,我坐下來稍事休息,然後向特茹河邊走去。那天參觀的最後一個景點是發現者紀念碑(Padrão dos Descobrimentos)。這座巨型雕塑乃為紀念恩裏克王子逝世500周年而作。它高達52米,被塑造成卡拉維爾帆船的形狀,船頭是恩裏克王子的塑像,麵向特茹河而立。巨型船帆的兩翼則分別雕塑了參與航海諸知名人物的塑像。左右兩列,各16個栩栩如生的巨像,恍如在王子帶領下,乘風破浪,出海遠征。從國王、王後到傳教士、航海家和詩人、學者、畫家,每個塑像都是有真名實姓的曆史人物,其中有達•伽馬祖孫三代,有發現巴西和非洲東海岸馬達加斯加的航海家卡布拉爾(Pedro Carbral)……這33個塑像手中多持有形塑其人事業特徵的物件,比如昂立船首的恩裏克王子,即右手托一小帆船模型,左手拿一張航海圖。 紀念碑背麵竪一巨劍雕塑,高聳的碑身中空如塔,內置電梯,可買票乘坐,直升頂層。我也隨遊客排隊等候,循序登上最高處,縱目瀏覽四周風景。向北俯視地麵,可看到大理石鋪就的廣場上刻有直徑50米的航海羅盤,以及標示葡萄牙人當年航海發現路線的世界地圖。向東眺望,可望見特茹河上的懸空大橋。向西遠觀,海天相連處落日鎔金,波光瀲灩。從紀念碑頂層下來,天色已晚,我也精疲力盡,急速乘車返回旅館。臥床休息間,沉思有關葡萄牙人航海功業的事跡,枕上成詩一首: 歐陸邊緣蕞爾邦,商船戰艦越重洋。攫金貪欲壯行色,佈道豪情促遠航。從 此荒蠻蒙教化,至今貨殖立綱常。一篇夢想光榮史,血雨腥風拓海疆。 裏斯本還有很多景點可遊,匆匆奔波了兩日,我已遊蕩到興味闌珊的地步。次日留在旅館房間內補寫日記,休整一天。2月23日淩晨,即從裏斯本機場乘機飛回紐約,結束了這次21天的長途漫遊。 |