Day7(June27)薩爾茲堡 Salzburg及上奧地利湖區小鎮
薩爾茲堡位於奧地利的西部,是阿爾卑斯山脈的門庭,是奧地利曆史最悠久的城市。城市的建築風格以巴洛克為主,主要代表是薩爾茨堡天主教堂和米哈貝爾花園。薩爾茲堡是音樂家莫紮特和指揮家卡拉揚的故鄉,也是電影《音樂之聲》的拍攝地。我們把車停在薩爾茲堡大學的一個停車場,然後走路逛老城區就可以了。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HFcIIQo7TkXeloCMzUQddGprGxS0QcvHN2pUabBni8vN67bneGhWfoY5Zis4XpGysLYeP3BkyPjx67OKlQ4C7IcjVYKMdC-3HUCN0tMGMCuSMG-i_85WbHuHiiMOGYlsy__D8ieJvVTjj0i1lLJVuRgo84ysQjGpymnrDRpDabdCxyGxh_A64IjabeG5N8YtdDEPx_uvMqxeS9hPnKnDaSSvtHPFqE7mIX2QCj_hG0oM58kwYT_mFedSNwvlvxVPeWnxkEe3FN9gWCFWdP_jWVeMHNBadVnl-YP0wKJ_FK1aT9SwGpMu-HNAkOxocDbH6ymV_tyKqDFCTwk3BHJ2HtKVJxaZ1RQGtUOUKFOftw0vndyqIV7Imuf8BKCyPleksfBRLQnRnQcChrXM5xOPZiHr9dBzVmmZlFDo_5RaFM8GWyUHC9QdlXK4X0zQEX0IngyVjCFDm5ghzA1APriyPcRExwNWKUYEhk4Uy60TZ2IWJAz9gfwBs1NpC_KvhelWvJWNqMYQJwcyOvgvOgs0re6wLv6QIvpGF236EuhZ6_U0PiFxPcDG4cTKXJLIi-VDpwaM1rAC5mjYyVJJBGwDk3bqmXK_g4ukyOvaKN5g1fVcvnOI7MY3cJKLdf4a2u7IO36zlcXBwNZQsoI90atcHUdsiwZv6AVMY2cSNZYOSkoIkQ=w898-h673-no)
奧地利第四大城市Salzburg曆史上有鹽都之稱,憑此得來的收入賦予了教會強大的經濟實力,在中世紀的歐洲地位強盛,獨樹一幟。Salzburg在神聖羅馬帝國時期(Holy Roman Empire)是一個獨立的總主教行政區,總主教(Archbishop)享有至高無上的權力。總主教Eberhard II在薩爾茨堡的曆史上起著至關重要的作用,他在1200年至1246年間將封建貴族的統治權、司法權和城市的管理權集於一身,成為薩爾茨堡的最高統治者,被譽為“薩爾茨堡之父”。1328年在總主教的授權下,薩爾茨堡逐漸成為神聖羅馬帝國內的一個獨立國家,幾與羅馬教皇分庭抗禮。17世紀初,總主教大興土木,現在的Salzburg老城的外貌風格就是當時留下來的。Salzburg 1996年入選世界遺產名錄。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2XxBHRGxrnPkYo6Xlxp4thGRLaN7nd3AwSWtR8owKAfssxpu6RqsjFn2UwYJVdglW42F7-X15_0bPrreEnun5VOJhLUnHrLW_e0t0YKFB3ov9NSGQ-E5pQ0iawIDGxxTZV46JuumBtFE0yXKTbFHcUXAVSnE2anaxf4bGKKhyzU6jL2pK9c--0kWlf1Pk_EeKwXMxyawDvJE12e6J3qm8V71h2Tmslr6rBAX8FZEdS-OZv7FK_iFJWu2dFwieoN1fMiSicGKc09xZ68Uj1AT2lG44QWVvvbSkp3nQTF4l2c8sFV_e-7wO0iVOz3BLhvvkjBFiy5x4xji_6Ofef_WPCDkt6e7zxV47aO3ACDjq1w-Zn4WYsrqt2cWtkJ6DBfXHtxinPS5NmzZzEVBC-5TvzOFizQTjuNwlfDI8zv4xBDORaXG_A3WvR9ikkJpbIG1-cg17OjWQSHLDZ_iUKPyXg5fe3U3tUBjFuNtQ74r9caKIycG_zWt6K23DCtUJsszHbqEeLbi3-vUi5qROxfF6yxnS1FM4ZNVra_feHAOz743bJqoJTLvjw4aPTzt5u-2cU0FvuaPgpCJM3W4kEVAI3XfsrbBf5XPlGIanWSU9lMtNUraGL-9nJMxipEgT_jk8UnSip4_LftJBxnSMKoaIDiMZgQictOnVHqW8NwaUwuC5A=w898-h673-no)
遠處那個山上的城堡Hohensalzburg,由總主教Gebhard作為官邸始建於1077年。這是保存最完好的最大的歐洲中世紀城堡,戰略上高居Festungsberg山巔,是俯視整個Salzburg城的軍事要塞。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4-cbaYEeIEau-_5mrfBE6K1oYilFv-dc1-osGbn6LmW-9psDt8CYfkf-XakK_P9BLVk5at5OvgufLe8YoQyQAqPiKdovPSdXjynAJyRnWSx5KncFik4g_wlM377KgX-uaonXTq1lK5XCsc8bGk5fGp1Sdu1UA4jz8P7KjZNM253uCybmxdT-NKrKrcbOruq3Rs-mtYkTuR0qTAafUvqmFqZHOnhoMRnifftqcP6yhPQinrYm7O7gM5WJuNAkuT7yj3sh-maS9at7u8oDg7W22hZvSMl46xE862pjvTU_I0VXGg6vaug7PdhHMgYm91gx0toyggk04Ux7FgeHZkkXLtGrSikfCaAVU9a_e3RmeIq6sM0ZvwDeR2FRaGHUnbHFupmUFaPtdsXhvVyONG6giWSuu_anAWLzKryVn2Vs0nEX4bWBzUzWU1SXgaJ-Y3aCBgP018Klibu0GNXNXQKScYZl8iq6iXCFk1pmc-mWjj0ONcF1SnBRJopgS462IhsnBmNypxVUaTG3jX_eLzD98Kd5RwyDHah0GKb12xNC0zXPGhZa3N3vxKxwlFGIYMnoI5gwr5StMWtnaaMGNnRZxbLvyWRf6DY2bxw5e_b644JNN2xWLnfdWmcDsFWDqu829kpPsjCHwdqNjfqxxYql5l1e8qSOK__NhQbRzP9JiLy-pQ=w898-h673-no)
Salzburg Cathedral(Dom),完成於1628年,替代774年建成並燒毀的Virgil Dom教堂。教堂門前有四個聖徒(Four Saints)的雕塑:St Rupert holding a salt barrel, St Virgil with a church,St Peter with keys,St Paul holding a sword。三個大門分別是the gate of faith, the gate of love, the gate of hope。教堂裏有總主教的起居博物館Dom Quartier。莫紮特曾經在這裏當了兩年的鋼管樂師,可他最終受到排擠而背井離鄉。從大教堂往前走到山崖下麵,有一個美麗的教堂——Erzabtei St. Peter。其墓地十分華美,並因電影《音樂之聲》拍攝Trapp一家在此躲藏納粹特務的場景而舉世聞名。我不願犯忌諱拍照墓地故無照片。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nNC-FHy7opHV5h1_CHJw1chh-SDY0Mk9oaeLYISJNOSqEypKRkrVPgX94frQ29O73UC10_ELUVsx9R29bw2dT_9kl5p5Xzqnscnc9DXw8p_7GEAjxQut8MjT9H4Kjg6zXuOW2nwjBHjaekXMsz5XWBRFC1leIhs36Ku3h72nWY0MwaarMTLaLnbXaECkjZGOdUXrlHbL0giEgMlDmGPvcBoQTfAB4Vf00ke9sEtdAfPPbjdGjgOLoljM3Gxt6F3PCl5jSrqu1JBzejXNiHry9DzJMRcql1-uWkvhGirP6RcESxeMeVzLXWV2yvsW-Ag_O5PyG7Hdd5drZQbRSwdY_7IP7ZBHOEMz-h1Nz_K0TOCwqd5ottmVdayc5D1rjyfcOJRw2KkgqmMDN434qbgs4YA3uOL5r-gstqZIUoMWFH4lqGZw4DhLVuRKiJgydyWKyMifkohYEvgsWzJ9TVzsKaeuS3Ou0eeHc7lg65bhwtMtCkeSSo3_FXPg0n7Mwln-jnMI80XSPgpiYkXWd9b_Jon5_7Bo54MYdyPnKMOSc8k5RpdpuVV1jU-GXxJTyAcuVN_wwvMfGHulflIGGLCsaOj_99oxO1CmUpbImfHOdEzX2mCcdLga9Uu8DghodwWa4RE6Xvh2DlRvk6OnBJgJd30jkgEWQAi6f_iGS6cjTm1OrQ=w990-h673-no)
Schloss Mirabell(米拉貝爾宮)是大主教Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau為他的情婦建造的。設計獨特的對稱式米拉貝爾大型花園是典型的巴洛克式公園,是按照著名建築師Fischer von Erlach的設計於十八世紀建造而成的。當然讓這裏名聲大噪的是1965年拍攝的《音樂之聲》在這裏取外景。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yz28L3Ipg-SO1EwDtn6HVjJd8detwyrpk8PPtvIquEmYkUR4ciulU3enjF1tHICHNchj0HCbHK7oENnd_A8iY1U9Ico1UfLpeUy2FGoiqCC5bsfICfb-B6fI3RXKRQfPAz2_y72jx_eZw6C-8gD-ch6vN7HJntJpv7qPcvsINTTWgHPBD24db3HJ1zhxhEPjM1y8N6DJX-GimPCC6_kkVFNQWa-aGEwBjfCSCliL4FNzfd_o-TiWm_MTiAcB2Rs4MF2RAO0CRaZWeyv20K3s7Av3qLfbsQn1X2LAeADukbJ_dyOdN2hpSt2NbvPgA2aUaoGYG8YF_9P1XT0UKeU4LmyuPuH7HiQi7_uaKaI4alf4yTt6GHPlMUue4_iGs9D8sJ_BmCCbqQzuMt0nKnJ_hWoHXMb4lA-SLNiNuiruElr-XdcYd_c8Xr00AK6wDJ0_F8fI6arpK7TT73J41lZnBBh02Rqdnm62Up8LdR2067TMiQ-Lmy_Nnq3XtWX9A-e7bIpeWgRGYH1ufmXgnWs7uFZ_ny3_OQumvFLiEzvBaVXnZ-szoAceGyUy-tbW7T9vR2nMvs9eXUi0-NZID9Y1w6EI_jfR5equKGtzEu-Yhzw-uk5xsCDjpwiNVKvRrSZbRapEKetI2a-1zHHsb_DTajno4C0HTzojGUoNO3eXp7uBmg=w898-h673-no)
Salzburg東麵著名的鹽湖地區Salzkammergut有許多湖,如Mondsee、Attersee、Fuschlsee、Wolfgangsee、Traunsee、Grundlsee、Altausseer See、Hallstätter See,等等,依山傍水排列著許多湖區小鎮,也有許多步道或環湖而行或把湖與湖連接起來。這些小鎮由於湖光山色風景優美曆史上一直是王公名流的度假勝地,限於時間我們隻是走馬觀花地順路拜訪了幾個。St.Wolfgang名氣很大遊客眾多商業化氣息太過,相比之下Bad Ischl 仍然保持了一些古樸。Bad Ischl 是Hallstatt 到 St.Wolfgang和Salzburg 的必經之路,距Hallstatt 20公裏,距St.wolfgang 17公裏。算是兩湖之間的一個小鎮,被譽為“隱藏在群山深處的明珠”。這裏是奧地利皇帝Franz Joseph I的避暑勝地,也是他與Sissi公主於1853年8月19日訂婚的地方。Kaiservilla(凱撒別墅)是他的母親贈送的結婚禮物,1914年7月28日,他在此簽署了第一次世界大戰宣戰詔書。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BEo2exLlqxSKcKDfoswemQu--7XBJtwMx-_m-sV2rUZEHKt54BOlEGi5SaJ-XLVkAxbrjxDmWRg5j899XgW_jYj5AKjwkQ6hpf3F8WdDqu-rEHMkMuISF0Hri4Ln50ShMJ9R3VPt3_HqbLHEfdRbxSPzsc0Zoplabc5TxOUer-UpoYa1cdSg07NJ0IXLeez7MWYiUnEH90xVq3BEOGFbgMVGhAb-qjT2RGG09dJC9ggQayo8wm--7HiyPlsoszBRVbYEyHholjUTHbhsKn7C2K8-vnXQzzw2QmRq6jCM8dV3YLup1eXS5eN9KcMjFSFLHhmtLhkKcJrBChOGaKKSxyZFhDdrgRL2wi7w0UpRkVNnr942d_kUKcNMvdYNVCvQ3i1qvOpIIIXDFCJU0uFrNOI4gguq-vhGL6fE-kLD9k0jFDzwqKpd2tOaGIjkFC_p1bJFsfTBs_hmqP4z0HKhhbRjBajhsApTyzeSx8d5m78KicVsqw_PIiHwzTHo6CeIwfuNpoykuaNOX0zZbcKNq2XIS5Bu_l-b_cKaCMM6Fhyv6uox1Fdv3i2EiGjJ1nJns9GnWFOmwkFRGAx4WH6WKYj3VcZs0krrrpr7-7kT_KfBsEjBpZrf_FNpn_qNJedKm4CVvWFqLqQr9k8UlOCqFd4pgrPiap9ViLePCCBgXVxkEA=w898-h673-no)
Day8(June28)Gosausee Hiking
早晨趕到Gosausee,偌大的停車場還沒有幾輛車。Gosausee是一組群山環抱的冰川湖,本來有三個湖,現在中間的小Gosau Lacke幾近幹枯,隻剩下一上一下兩個大湖。下麵的湖口建有水壩和小水電站,還有一家豪華的山中客棧。環湖的平坦步道可繞行一圈,不過最近由於湖對麵Gosaukamm山上滾下的大石頭把環湖小路給堵住了。清晨的Gosausee風平浪靜,水波不興。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5YzURvhS8vqE_qqvIdpXkPu96l_kPM5Pw4kLz-b0K4ozGOPzm-lEomPTNN68q2z-v6ZrvQ8CdjxbOf182cJQVMFSrdOWMl8STh6KgQ6IRSXFL2P_uTWwuFe8JLrTs178LpF0CDZWt-jcrpZ63l57txSCLC1RLoc43Ctnpljwovy76NrD4cWmpHCPxuKrVgQiR9_HuTgXOmnk3ep6r_Zn1SlHJPmGUUWBPl8vEjJXBcPTMW1hluLc0NJ7uAlY2jgQ0P5Eu9vk7XoCpNTdhPDQnglEptK_RH9UycklB2axCescEycaKqZdVyeol_L-a_d24yjtx_OrYvpmSvGi2M0EA58xMYiPqucn-xh_ccxlQTzpkD5GeMmwUqvdUxOtq5pa4iTo4kktIw16MXRyrT2fLiSyb-mwUFqX13bKJtgtOKbpJCABwQRmjkWPbhadfeRUosS6Dex6lBPQRKZn97Qb2yGnGxAridiu0OaoKYwkrjOg6rBbi4uwBuVhrmIghRICOlw7WJdUTu6njyK99dH4yiTjzhYoCW5oZlWemf7uBFEdK4zKo62wTIK3RsnONLxMEdKYroGAZnn5nYv2USDJJ9bmchQuAi3eHQu_Gn52qaee0jeaWMM-cJOMqRgGbzNxqNPIIRJDb30gqC9fy3UHP-wOJEvI9nYKqJk6ZzONwPYIgQ=w1010-h673-no)
Gosaukamm山脈最高峰海拔2454米,也是一片很秀美的山峰,不過我們在多洛米蒂已經見慣不奇了。山脈兩邊都有纜車至半山腰供人們高山徒步。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GzW4EDOC4BJXXtI43tK_wJhBlH4SQJWeqSbDSth6qtrznwmXT-P2IzM3UcK0ye08itiMLOZt5zbPiLN_oYZWK7VTfnqEn7tDnV434wFFMZuNcJZgxbz-HQ5voMaVtDMnPuNzUi9Bzk46Nnp2wu470EkhzAuNIM0ks8jp5l66wDOoPfIeBwXevAEusaNF0xk42TefIVBUyar39qO_3UbNaNrQXySLsO_635iS4fXQZNrFNbqERPUzQ3gad-cbfjb1GnodCQOx2TCeq7TzRS6BD4KrH9knwonZ5fmzWsMSpGxNpIFCSAeqr8q0vue-E2wXc54Sclc7ajz7bLSEuYScAviAG5iAVLfvKVDwm9dGKp8JYP8CJOe71Tl57LnBuokWCn69E8GJBOr3Uef6M-Bl72Q7OddTOAqA2ev9aeZBzZiHVGaB-4LiUdvWExatv7gYxTOKvbj-6y6PCIMQIQx70YQ9UaxU5YcEZ1kF3v77VwyDBv12CgJO3a440a1h_KxS1StJ768u09lNZIpAGb9a20ffLdcjMoMnibNyM0vMTopMCf5el9VZEZ2Hz0XeKKXP9oAKZdPtdSXYagJQVSS-C7sgexXNFkzzWxs9HMIJdWtZZruEbPiA60F8HzxJeB-GailNzr_66VrNNxtHimLplwEh12QAmbOVGdDyyAfNs0CV0g=w1010-h673-no)
沿著湖這邊的小路往前走,可以繼續到上麵的冰川湖。路上碰見有人在湖邊的峭壁上攀岩。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kK0OOJDSLKYw4iLP_qagZP-x0D3XuNXKKkD1H6YQ1zdtApgxATCTIEjqqMGdJaStGREABXH3SMk79B7dD5rY0qdUAIL-A5_QxL1plt1DTl5k-hQ_xGyQU-DSv2-ZGeIL-ZDf3ZcKhZ_LVmvqJy44W9HGR_rzjL3C60Y9AO3t2cPQ3r-dMJpJVvm_6_aTYtCFZfqbD-gskV2Yb1dpeuFYEAA4BhOtq7IU1AjbDMvRP0FrNLIW5XBhIzt_ucJEpj5tU3kFg4AyoKBZghiMJmeWYLfJnsNjzRZCP19MN29JFadusnoLpDnHKXF3PdNnq1QNrgmbIy5jiqFC51tBSokeMfGCC06U9R4eeT00J-MqRQm418rrIj0-5wFh39vvwI9LTss27c-ZXZGC6VOfTytjYDKl1kmr3rSQq-KDBYlabPNuXRd5wGjIEBuo6r8r85aIRzds_-qtxVm_Sw2d7qbE6VvwrsAUbfELLd1ZucdGl6cB92Y8VjADOdFpOkx2iq8hG1afYfDWUC0IffjU1NCxI5hv2Icqyx6mR4Zu9OSRxvOd1kn-zZyTe0fObdIxJHaYd-OjiPWi7n9Ca7Ag2KJlhIxBP_8nBW-9ChBPNoqSx119SJJOthm8gJMcD4d_6PMu52RsHXFJJz1v2I8xeWEx2eRzs_qhxbF6ZP1IT7uV5jbuXbQDPAOZkBFAVQmuQK6Ul2F4jXJf2dCeXFo0mv3iQlmMErdKl3i9BVqouRzMvv0kc8jv=w664-h443-no)
上麵的冰川湖正處高山峽穀口而風勢甚猛。湖對麵的高山就是Hoher Gachstein(2996m),需要爬很陡的坡才能爬上去。路上遇見兩個登山者,他們說本來是要爬到上麵的高山客棧住宿的,因為今天風太大就不上去了。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e46kqvY9X_gwRf2I92Jg5zj8F8J0jad2M2_hcwIRtmdjofTdsp4C5GgU6qPPeqkB1cxnZAiWM-BDF5opx60iYIZeph8s5AC9c_pcDY7Nmasf3PY3X7C0MV5EbSHMnWEb_uekPHEfoOOnhkivotzdULV6dNQ_mT_BuiDzLQhpTbiwpQsMGE7tqT1cktO2Xbr3qTR4ptbCPatZCj12u3dukL1BOGv4wItd5P0tdfGidCQrlXabbDKo1Vio_v5XckJI_ukXzSnvULmjQEWriJ7-ks8ROeE6YL5Qphl2V23R095LI6TuedsxdEUM7_m5F3227L8ZrZQENc0-mjGqc3aKuhmRs4ui3O1J329jTmVQXU-xlcvT1M0baWttk2L2Jhl62iD8SxJE1aYLh_dw2gbbqIvZ9NyG1g9yvaJTLUUU8ahl7sN2cXj2O6zIncnXigk8jI-q8qNIq2DumPTXh44cUTEHUwANVcJ4WgyLG6tDBpUxIAqAVQvuGD-cEE-u3uJlZOwb9xyEmBvulRGOX-MrTiVszzD5cOIcgIFbkeEx8ROIiizpxBNPH53_tv0ZBqHxvii3gRjuPu91JmOOU-G489XcXxXHfV3lwqjPe0VDPwOeExHlC70NUZZ6E-LnAzkyYAClKge6bgp-q0vMv3jROy6ieR3wefgAeQUPCOniHfGX_Q=w1010-h673-no)
Hoher Gachstein山上的Gachstein Glacier是阿爾卑斯山區東部的第一冰川,吸引了眾多的登山爬冰愛好者。可惜我們在山下看不到,隻能來一張遠遠的冰川照濫竽充數。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v_k1aieP4UktNqLmggGe9yrxlissH7NUxwIO4AlaJH6cFx-54hUoJ72MLQNWUECnAb1oppoOeXsvCncqd2X-CZlxdDB39i98-Fn1rJqUJdKCDlP5y6aO9VU6ndHBEa2KiLqxBdvOFjqOCDSvsdH_4Aalpa1WvEVntXzYbx2ucEec9AB-VMXL0sSV7UF51aNSjGRvGs8LfYcb6QF3azw0kBK9zVuFGxI6_JItClARApPvtfA1iM-oeN4kJ3vAM1vi9ikoDvnHHOTNQvgNwhxoNeAA5hN9kwJRWZMiuSru-rAI-GKZesbpS2HirzrLHkz3xuYyJMcaWXSk1Oe4ghHkEHV1QI4R6jAPn3OaLnn2sh3JZCuRj1qnksd4TaT9Ai_DAlAR2UJBBMPSl_Qin-QAYAWcYO9hw4-MtgvxkNg9FR62EyP8Sxzq8enJnF-KAhwtZw0zRm0cgyzPXgJJ5E48vowmVJNlaLl02niAXWoOm96xGtZI4uX7HpQclHE9ktY8OTxw-nI6GBX7MKyDUZEquGbSbvLuzQwETtK3onIVCmYjpMgiXF-07u9KVyecQQg32sZqLOXJFEoFw9D2zYfDKduZwifuYyIHq59-4p5dyuOsgjdA7x57HELIX7ScjpO9q5i5mPP2oaRVQL8rqDi6bDooGLWSNIocjXZvoaw4rDO5iA=w1010-h673-no)
Day9(June29)從奧地利湖區重返意大利多洛米蒂
這三天每天早晨出遊都經過Hallstatt,也就當然毫不例外地停下來遊覽一圈。所為何來? 隻因Hallstatt蜚聲中外。Hallstatt位於阿爾卑斯山東部,鹽湖地區Salzkammergut內的一個著名小鎮,是奧地利最古老的小鎮之一,古樸典雅的建築與迷人的湖光山色相得益彰,再加上曆史悠久的鹽礦,使這裏1997被列為世界文化遺產,被譽為世界上最美的湖畔小鎮(沒有之一! ? )。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j1U-5erjW9dCAXpNNjj_vo2GXEGoB2zx8-qw8p9jRm4D_9bEP0aSHKCypvBjrfGwH9J3I6JX50TZGu0jvwsIKgoaZLy5WBQdMtNITi6W1sRIZU_znhTGdIjIGhkTZi4gJ-KhnwJjRgKkU_ifwQ05XUEu1UqVJksz6QArycQjMHZj0NaSpYVt6W9DsQuISEbNy1468bqUBVIMzn9uNboPk1GvcLy5LHpHIUC9kEi-ZtxyvlfnOCtO8qGmJv8jltsjYap2VwAPfkukX9XIIoB36AAQZmjzdonuCKWkRnFto6pr62EwNq1C6QErTRcgJ236ELc4sMXaJ2WmsiY6B3yu7HSN4NiZJCcU9gZ1cXMf-yl9mF7dusWuFzAcmb0zU8mh0DCLumHKjycXpjaIVDWLc7oQF5LNjx4ECMdi-D9pAytPUj0cTKhFpeQK-14ApKcmT8fA6b3UowVVpw0qD5ZVKUjLyn8JMR75D5OgtjDwuu2oEUs_v0o_vuIWrjTUYDhbSNf0pZVj2vRG5IYc5clGtP038_4BidcdBx3kjsw6hpaNv-vIiiAjmxp8ya0j9G5lGsfq00rZmgUpR8Z0e2lVNoU5qocYqUl9UpcJ7kGEJiZFSp2AsSM6GFRdY8JShDoM88D-tdYQbRc4Mru11400MLe057vRtr20EepfxtIdAV7M0A=w1010-h673-no)
小鎮很小。一條狹窄的馬路20分鍾可以走個來回,幾條上下坡的階梯小道一個小時就可以把小鎮逛遍。清晨逛小鎮最舒暢,萬籟俱寂,水平如鏡,唯有天人合一的絕美景觀靜悄悄地展現在你的眼前。上午10點至下午5點小鎮裏麵的唯一公路不許車輛通行,外地車輛隻能穿過隧道把車停在外邊的幾個自助收費停車場。但早一點(比方說6、7點鍾吧)進去能找到鎮裏麵劃定的幾個限時 30分鍾的免費停車位,運氣好的話還能找到那幾個90分鍾的呢。再晚一點滿載遊客的旅遊大巴就來了,來的遊客以中韓等亞裔居多,據說都是一部韓國電影鬧得。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wxqE9Wc4PlQaMBhz75Q4aDhuOrh_Sv8HhnSTrokx8B0fpeuoqWCMIB63DdeiYSaDQf8o6Bt9ToL5ZxwJezjJTcy41YrK2P85SDVXZ8LyvqXOUglz-W_LaCoyZebXPq6jCPReKrhkZvkGDbSdw2pQrhl8I16d3yGvXUkUPu8vM6OXc0tsH9elO6nHcgh5OdRQAS5-_l1pFcjlrOJOAidPJYIFiJyqKysT1pgU3uXRL1O3_9PeQyrje-y92U3lVAd46mHLxNVrJFuZ86Y43eLYtdxdr0BCby9QUAXVYKRCUA5zxs4IIC22M3i1ZFU0V1jZV3GqP2tSUabfumlbCeigwxpJpBWtA_BNQ6Z96r0VueIZQeozm0FF0P7D1Ut-2JNsXYSt_Oc-MzNyvEcbR3jMiG5XARa0MVADovxjF1vOsdP3ZaJZFg6kjb_ae0UqveUDd8rXWUQuUZfPzbLJlwCQfHhVLXqizogrAG5uFSGg5wl6tYr3lTutzXntJClRg1PozX8zgS18EvGEaMprwgB0-8Gw3O9NODCpl24weR5sQqhbdQv-qM943tPl1ciF7LzXOJ6fKTa7CW2sQAHMJ6H3BWRE8tzIEtRYNPdZb9kRWw2HAEDrL81G3EY9HMn3UOklJ6rWrNRUX7QG_QHyQ1yjgY5Mt45aADUiwDuRR-WNLC9bvg=w1010-h673-no)
今天準備重返多洛米蒂。原先計劃走Grossglockner Alpine Road(B107),這是一條北起Fusch,南至Heiligenblut,修建於1930-1935,全長41公裏的一條阿爾卑斯山區風景路。 而這條公路的名字則來自於奧地利本土最高峰Grossglockner Mountain(3798m) https://www.grossglockner.at/gg/en/index。可是天公不作美,路上竟然下起雨了。雨天行車在山區連續急轉彎的盤山公路上是相當危險的,我們當機立斷放棄該計劃,轉入高速A-10快速趕回意大利。接近意奧邊境已是雲收雨住,在進入意大利之前的最後一個小鎮Weitlanbrunn的加油站給油箱加滿油,因為奧地利的油價比意大利要便宜不少。經SS49轉SS51重新進入多洛米蒂山區,山色更加壯觀。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TR-GOo6MJMrJB_0heL1e_IHD5Q8CHlAuFHxAxuYA-hWC643xdmQ-vdjGJtFQVxoFlDcuCQxsJChznEgSXc7LvyPOJhP5e9GXGhMFCztfddSnOB1YyN8YwbCIvZldmpOp-cbwuooXRxs5wZtppdM-CQL4sAFlmbxxFdzw29jM1Olca8jenoBFAo51rvjCW8SRQG_zN4VQeN4KJAS2L1P9wJzyirojDuDDiYQcPCenzCheM9hQPIARt6e0w9DP6jITvnPtg6FbjrvYUKlzcRExdBzKOhP6DvY3-UqjzeSoBN0Hc1hkvdiGBpDdZr_AioWkM8yh6URXF3-N6ovSsKsSz1Dd607rUT1LCSU88vc3627ys3Q-yn04MuwyDzBX9MRd-KAqRlZ_bH0cXHvYWqhoR8Tzp-bopl1Xl4tIJWRvmTdCsBWaxSWpILQVs43Lr3JwAIhgc3f7bBf0_7dc7xIw5J3zsqH-Zk7vPWv03f0S--FQcadPiYla-iSqUfqJ-gPRMQcQDqOj654xgiTT5ejbFHuxCpAYgyNLQR3uC22KvniBgQbSO4dm4O6be1HGYN2jg8-WxRWblIaik4uMV8fo2HcrbZOji-BxEaGL1qJVxwyZ3KkFTaPmNfKdiNrloHDMp6VS0Fa1_1-1DhbsUqaOCH1IHsqkp1Qd8OVCJudVAbUJQA=w898-h673-no)
路過Lago di Dobbiaco後有一個Hotel Baur Tre Cime,旁邊是一公共停車場,許多人由此處沿著山穀往Tre Cime 方向徒步。可惜今天雲量較大,山穀深處的三姐妹峰Tre Cime始終是尤抱琵笆半遮麵。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lw10uAP0mhhJjyMitmq7dJCwYdjy-Lbi6W5_XPjTZkzOulsmw6ctUSUTo04CMk9XjOr6Mc14JWpvqG5TuUHUx_xjeMKiFGEITEMNcJ44hroV_Svk-139aZ-2A91QSVWRCjGrWZhTcZ3RImhcPQhPSYa7rLRUrrufs2vkpi5TMSWKAxRTw-SQd5VkRLv1c--97WoZp7UNxKpaPGgmSAxdndXw87DYuSEWLuZ8InaUqoD8_UCeqHYHRiaaRPKVo4GE-IBbBA2veBmoMCH1bmnOD1G03rFlgU_lUdcJFJTPKGtnOVFDLapGGxhgTwlI3PC_ir2QxeYzcbA3N50n7pHbkHNvLifbraVqsc5cDKcgrFcpy8Gd8P0pVPEUKtApdNwtKWkR2ERigK3eLINV3UnEcxRPtTBt5BgUnzez4biiHslynz16mjGSAYifYUnkma3wJD-bi4TUM0MvCwQURJJy7KUjJralfvjMR9qmd-hzHzhKvvcyCBpcKVeW7DjkNV2P5VTjo9z5xKH5OCA0_qWofVJEaagBlss2Q9VWl3bUHMwjiHtXPSaGFpwpIuhZphMeP1bctnRQeBTwsWxndgRy-GnD8YuzSAtXcbYZ95KmILgxGTlTeL8xc8viR7xH-Ts-RLbZgtAvkwn2secH1xo_NWMWpHZn1KXlKpvMDMNukWYT1A=w898-h673-no)
觀景棚旁邊的模型展示了專業登山家攀爬Tre Cime的路線
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R3eTMMik6dQaLmcnitD0bg3Sp4L-krcPgUZzXv6bUss20qPpRL-5aj3W6BcuaaNeKni28IRAKzZbW8rBuIDnO7LSWrQQVGWa-sykwISG8YBADk1XkvEQJWoz0bEQL_RFbxbafkYM5ZBsDGG6ziQpoocGwNJJzFu18TKAGVS_GAIQL6LK83irdvehXUEj8LwmCRIv4rqhSFmeNta8q7v4rwLPCqqjBpF2yCWO5db9ZCFXrlamn__3vr6lEwETGKFP7wAqkwEcztxdVzrb_iFV-KtQlGvnWoimN30fz04ZmCz83LjR5aYKv3Ka5x8zx-2Mvhowe5qVi9IjfMkn0-0P8MIXmY6IOMhJr7FoTqeRF9toZjROqk2cmdHX8rT0XGmC0CdyFaeL6tIg0JCFtvd_0jGFm7NuTG9YF2GnKZTNhmIGgZYYF8xtUVS4ur7tBB6OZsVr_DjRPKJJhF6VILnwdq7dGjBFO-OTo3cuKsLQumJtDZ1S8aA6CXn63y8h3ULUkwgHMx8PMTqTYh_L3ZMtEKea3T2uOKFQQn5JFU_X0AYDiie-VqoANUORYJWenxg3KiSevUhMs1rY509hePbpzLc4Zo1PwxQGlg5b7CLfxbRPd-Iekfd2VvTC3DS42iFP5SeyunYKd9GB0_uP7Q-iDIJbpFRs_ucyqjHTDncS1NHuMA=w898-h673-no)
往前不遠處又是一個湖,也是AV-3的途徑地
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z5EagabPiMF_rDsoOJNAJnPfM6BcLbwQgo91olWWPOBCqoxUQPWtu0bkzx6pEzKtMPzpolhc0zHJ8GB0wG8CJr_jtzAuR9zjOR5bbRf7El1mluCo6QN_01Bv_Hkqf7laGWL2bA-lEMgoun6dPK8JZqWcv8vAo-VgsLd3gTp-rvOrSJpi_-Q9SCuuLON5RNxZcWSM9umX-lgD9zCwuz08YBKR-0-CiKbKdby-ksOS05lzNTDxX4zwCVqWEYaXYFADWOgFbqdjzcjUcGRqLJsIXih1y2Bt7mJVzsbt6RGKDgQYD44Ch8s__0KReYNKpQoTAqGTCgO3IuGAnpX_1pC_KvGXHsxC8ePTJqbdgBTBgaHvpfVqfWaIIxScN2JggAPOqpjzuLq6hS1O_aQ0lDXgyKmOSh2HiXLAMyRQOVM4jBvmLDjvn4QyNH10p7zu8FrKwURNs1My-xAcuq9-HP8yG2x2kccFl9h9dwQXbCvY1ysG4pQoWemkXGoKst0xqkjQrrev-rrBBKY_3SdzCCwEy3Dg0Ml_wB--0oSEjPKHWec5QJOlcE53uybK7HlffustwFS8ktqRHZQsXFYOqxeng_fUskpJYLu2LdPqNKtUSkkNWF_BkbI1vhmVr86o8QqAKCmfIa9EP_MhXEFspBY4X-9fiO0iM693Wry9UDOXuaOH2w=w898-h673-no)
路上幾次停留欣賞湖光山色,傍晚順利到達意大利北部小城Cortina d'Ampezzo,入住高山腳下美麗的木屋公寓。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jPPi8-l6Ftb5z9xAlhdQKpD9vaD2jgTNflRLCrW5NXO0jT5yVLbqJHq4ovKGu4kQaep82dIHkkEGA7xpmT60FBRiAG5vgrDTambj43AMkKPAcdu_g-fFE4ei8pTNxIoHS3C2bAdHt9VSjPWFyyT5yoq6hO62ooJ55HE5XqypVOujEdj_FqF8UNAMNsTq1ULz8WVqZZ8qL0vj2kjNdiOgwgLzP6iTTJ5xBpVtc4zE9IwL3ScBOS2SDFysG5dkzZ3mmPDjpkq2Rnbi3drqqQnJMP6aH10cPbyvTUK3YE_4pF5-TzLGf3vJK-7p8sgY_X7KCISCjUly08CUJgrHHD8VoXkCnLnAaJm8Zls14T4a9k54VMZRCXPgceDNZiPd-ZzBSTGjEIPCExBjTqE3Jex_F3MeqElAvhrIFZe-jB65vYnoOXr_lUEFozpQPS_fWcV29QlYR17x9257kRSWz3aBcWuWb9tKIFPKE1PMVnzMx6MpT_RFAoklbGLb7i6MSXi3-S86LvYb_4_ROxDIpy_jYQYUZOKO752IHbwLwcv43vYzX_LKucSjcRuK4_r-4rly-AWyMetFiXlRUP6jSCSUYDwMxQBrvAY25o686UCr34wWnYRac6ctbGQIT8_vP0KkgpY-660C6JURyLhHCJYGFVUohvPNvEScainYuITJWSeJVA=w899-h673-no)
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